Report on Visits to United Arab Emirates 2024
Two visits were made in 2024 to the UAE, staying at the Jumeirah Golf Estates, Dubai, both times and travelling to other parts of Dubai and Abu Dhabi. One visit was in autumn, the other in winter.

The summary of bird-types is 60 species from 226 records, 13 complete lists, 15 places. If Heuglin’s Gull and Steppe Gull are considered as separate species, the total is 61 bird-types. The full bird records are available here. Butterflies were of 2 types: Veined-tip (fairly widespread) and Clouded Yellow (one seen). One Arabian Paper Wasp was seen. Mammals comprised 3 types of deer: Oryx, Arabian Gazelle, Arabian Sand Gazelle.

Diary
Winter visit 24/12-30/12
December 30th: maximum 24C, minimum 20C, light NE, sunny all day, dry. Lazy day but good evening celebration at Clubhouse with yours truly treating Catherine and family to meal, cost 780 AED, £170.We ate at their Italian restaurant, complete with red wine and mocktails. Had a White Wagtail on the lawn 1 and 24 House Crow at roost at the Clubhouse.
December 29th: maximum 24C, minimum 19C, light SE, sunny all day, dry. Long day trip to Abu Dhabi, another of the United Arab Emirates. At Jumeirah early-on at 08:50 had 3 Ring-necked Parakeet showing well 1. Had a great day, visiting the Louvre, an art and civilisation museum, the Corniche (beach), the grand mosque (Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque). At Al Rahba, Abu Dhabi, had 3 Black-crowned Sparrow-lark and a Black Kite by the roadside at 09:50. At Al Jubail Island at 10:05 had 6 adult Slender-billed Gull. The Louvre 1 was very interesting, a museum designed in collaboration with the Paris institute. It depicted human progress from the earliest villages through towns and cities to the present time. Classical themes were prominent, not surprising as the French had several classical revivals. Birds here on Al Saadiyat Island in the port area 1  2  3  4 totalled 12 types, including 5 of gulls: 1810 Black-headed, 260 Slender-billed, 4 Heuglin’s adult 1  2  3  4  5  6, 2 Steppe adult 1  2  3  4  5  6, 2 Caspian (adult 1 1w 1  2  3  4  5  6); a tern, 1 Sandwich 1; 3 doves: 6 Laughing, 3 Feral, 2 Collared; a wader, a Common Sandpiper 1  2; a Grey Heron 1 and 5 White-eared Bulbul. Flocks of gulls, mainly Black-headed Gull, in the port area are shown here: 1  2  3  4  5  6 and with significant Slender-billed Gull are shown here 7  8  9  10  11. Flocks of almost exclusively small gulls on the sea outside the port were also photographed: 12  13  14. At the Corniche beach area 1  2  3  4  5 from 13:50-16:15 had a good walk and lunch. Birds totalled 12 types: 4 gulls: 2 Steppe Gull (adult 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  and 1w 1  2  3  4  5), 21 Slender-billed Gull, 69 Black-headed Gull (4 1w); 3 pigeons: 12 displaying Laughing Dove, 1 Collared Dove, 36 Feral Pigeon; 5 others: a Western Reef Heron 1, a House Crow, a singing White-eared Bulbul, 12 Common Myna, 16 House Sparrow. Flocks of gulls, mainly Black-headed Gull, in the Corniche area are shown here: 1  2  3  4  5  6 and with significant Slender-billed Gull are shown here: 7  8  9. The Grand Mosque is incredibly impressive 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  12  13, with many minarets and two large ones, gleaming a rosy colour in the sunset. At 16:00-18:20 we made our visit, queuing for a while but then had a full walk around the mosque as darkness fell. Had some interesting birds here: 2 Cattle Egret, 1 Lesser Whistling Duck (escape, surely 1  2  3), 1 female/1w Bluethroat 1  2, 10 Common Myna, 6 House Sparrow 1, 1 singing White-eared Bulbul.
December 28th: maximum 25C, minimum 18C, light N. sunny all day, dry, perfect winter’s day! Had 2 interesting insects photographed in garden of daughter: a Veined-tip butterfly 1  2 and an Arabian Paper Wasp 1, latter looking a bit like hornet. Also in garden had a Purple Sunbird 1 feeding on flower-nectar and a Little Egret flying over. At 20:00 had a Song Thrush singing. Went to Clubhouse for good lunch; I had salmon croissant with some peroni lager to wash it down. Then off to seaside to the Kite Beach 1  2  3  4 for a walk along the edge, a few coffees at a bar 5, piccie of the sunset 6, the 7-star hotel 7, the port across the water 8  9  10  11  12. Parked near Al Kooteia Street, where had 4 Steppe Gull adults, 80 Black-headed Gull, 20 Slender-billed Gull, 8 House Crow. There was an amazing roost of gulls building, including some Slender-billed Gull, arriving from inland 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9. Birds of the Middle East gives the Black-headed Gull as the most abundant small gull in the Arabian Peninsula but Birds of the UAE does not say anything about relative abundance; think the Slender-billed Gull is commoner than many people think. Today there was a big gull roost at dusk out to sea to W: 6000 (20% Slender-billed Gull, 80% Black-headed Gull) around shore 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8 or coming from inland; 4000 out to sea (4% Slender-billed Gull, 96% Black-headed Gull) 9  10  11. Rounded totals: 1400 Slender-billed, 8600 Black-headed. Also at Kite Beach had 10 Steppe Gull (all appeared to be adult), 40 House Crow, 30 Feral Pigeon (displaying), 2 Laughing Dove (pair), 8 White-eared Bulbul (singing), 4 Ring-necked Parakeet, so 8 bird-types in all. Plenty of glamour around and lots of happy visitors. Interestingly the many Russian children starting recently at daughter’s school have sometimes found it difficult learning English (including a new alphabet) as well as the usual subjects but along comes the school pantomime and they fill most of the leading positions with panache. Also tried to find out a bit more about the inhabitants of the Golf Estates; evidently quite a few are in international finance, like my son-in-law, but a number have shadier backgrounds, which will not describe here! Whatever, Dubai is a far friendlier place for people with money than the UK; income tax is zero but you do have to have private health, private pension and private education. Not so long to return now: Off to Abu Dhabi with son 2moro by bus!
December 27th: maximum 26C, minimum 18C, light NE, sunny all day, dry, perfect winter’s day here! Had good social morning chatting to family, then off to the Clubhouse doing a bit of birdwatching from 14:15-17:30 with a good break for a couple of g in the Sports Bar, costing just £26. Birds are starting to breed, taking advantage of the relatively cool conditions so lots of excitement and very easy to see. Quite a complicated picture id-wise with the gulls and a few small passerines so no full picture yet but certainly over 20 bird-types today with new ones of Brown-necked Raven and 2 Indian Silverbill 1  2. Final total was 22 bird-types including 4 Indian Roller 1, an Arabian Green Bee-eater in flight 1, 2 Pallid Swift, 3 Streaked Scrub Warbler, 1 Chiffchaff, 3 Spanish Sparrow (in flock of 300 House Sparrow). Gulls comprised 25 Slender-billed Gull (24 ad 1, 1 1w), 4 Black-headed Gull (all 1w), 3 Steppe Gull (2 ad, 1 2w 1  2  3), 1 Heuglin’s Gull (adult). Hoopoe are regular visitor to daughter’s new lawn, pecking up the ants with 4 seen today.
December 26th: maximum 24C, minimum 17C, light NE, some high cloud early morning, sunny later, dry. Relaxing day around Dubai (25/10-2/11): Golf Estates, going for lunch at the clubhouse and having meal at home in the evening. Birds are a lot more active than in last visit in late October; the residents are getting ready for breeding, probably in January to March when relatively cool but with more insects around. There’s also some signs of migrants appearing, perhaps from further S, getting ready for journey N. Today had a heron sp (presumed 1 Grey Heron) calling at dawn, 8 Slender-billed Gull (6 ad, 2 1w) 1, 2 Arabian Green Bee-eater (pair) 1  2  3, 2 Hoopoe 1  2  3, 12 Ring-necked Parakeet, 12 White-eared Bulbul 1  2, 10 Common Myna, 18 House Sparrow 1  2  3  4, 23 Feral Pigeon, 4 Laughing Dove 1  2, 8 Collared Dove, 16 Indian House Crow, 2 Streaked Scrub Warbler 1  2  3  4, 1 Indian Roller 1  2, 2 Purple Sunbird, 1 Delicate Pinion 1, last 2 (new for me in Dubai), together with migrants 9 Pallid Swift 1  2  3  4  5  6, 1 Swallow, 3 Eurasian Bee-eater, 2 White Wagtail, that’s 20 types with still a little to sort. On flowers 1  2 had one butterfly: Veined-tip 1. Two more pictures of house 1  2.
December 25th: maximum 24C, minimum 18C, light W, sunny all day but hazy midday, dry. Not much sleep but up at 10:00 to exchange presents and have breakfast, before late lunch, Turkey again, same as on flight out, think this year has been record for Turkey dinners! A very good social day. Party comprises 3 Iranians, 2 Anglo-Iranians, 3 English! Their place is finished now 1  2  3  4  5  6 with functioning swimming pool, heated at this time of year but cooled in summer. Gardens have been landscaped, cactus to front and trees such as bamboo, date palm, pomegranate, on golf course side, all on automatic watering system, including area of natural grass. Some areas have artificial grass. Good thing is now have much better views of golf course from garden,. Today had 2 Grey Francolin, 7 Ring-necked Parakeet, 6 White-eared Bulbul, 2 Indian House Crow, 2 Hoopoe, 1 Indian Roller, 13 Feral Pigeon, 1 Collared Dove, 10 Laughing Dove, a White Wagtail 1, 13 Common Myna 1, plus new species for Dubai (for me!): 2 Arabian Green Bee-eater 1, 2 Black-headed Gull 1w, 3 Pallid Swift. At night had a Little Owl calling. Butterflies comprised a Clouded Yellow and also had a pyralid moth 1.
December 24th: maximum 11C, minimum 10C, moderate SW, dull, very mild. Did NCL-DXB with Emirates business class, all very smooth and comfortable, watched 3 films: Anyone but you, Marvels and Life of Mozart in 3 parts. Left at 13:15, arrived at 00:15 Dubai time. Well laden with presents and duty free, all arrived safely. Taxi cost 140AED, about £28, including tip. Dubai airport is super efficient with smart passport gates for UK passengers, luggage on belt before I got there, transfer to taxi very speedy. Took one hour from landing to arriving at daughter’s place; business passengers get first coach away from plane. Typing this at 03:30, waiting for son on a later flight from Stansted to let him into the house.
Autumn visit 24/10-1/11
November 1st: maximum 32C, minimum 27C, light N, sunny all day, dry. Getting a bit more acclimatised, did a walk midday from 11:00-13:00 to Club House, where had an Americano and croissant as a break. Had usual species in abundance but also saw 3 Chiffchaff in the lush vegetation of the Estates; these are probably of the menbieri subspecies, breeding in Iran, with tristis not being established as the main form in UAE British Birds. Also had in 12 bird-types 17 White-eared Bulbul 1, an Indian Roller 1, a pair of Hoopoe 1, plus 4 small butterflies: Veined Tip Colotis vesta. Here’s 2 piccies of daughter’s house 1  2. Main event of day was the concert at Dubai Opera of Vivaldi’s violin concerto and Vivaldi’s Four Seasons in an arrangement by Max Richter. Daughter and I went to that. Concert hall was packed and it was very civilised and glamorous, obviously an event to be seen at! The star was violinist Anastasiya Petryshak, from Ukraine, playing solo in the violin concerto and lead in the Four Seasons. The orchestra was the Kyiv Virtuosi Chamber Orchestra, under Dmitry Yablonsky. So an all-Ukraine performance. Dubai is full of Russians and there were certainly quite a few in the audience tonight: they do after all share the same musical heritage, including Prokofiev, who was born in Donetsk. The enthusiastic audience clapped after everything, even pauses, but the performers kept smiling, and did two encores. It’s good to see Dubai encompassing European music in this way. We had a quick meal before in an Indian restaurant close to the theatre and afterwards we explored Dubai’s glamorous nearby water-front, including the tallest building in the world, the Burj Khalifa at 828m. Below this building is a lake full of fountains, which all come on in a synchronised ‘dance’ on each hour! We got taxis there and back; driving in the City Centre is not for the faint-hearted. Dubai is hedonism personified!! To bed early at home as up at 03:45 for 07:25 flight DXB-NCL tomorrow!!
October 31st: maximum 32C, minimum 26C, light NE, sunny all day, dry. Halloween today, celebrated in style on Jumeirah Golf Estates, amazed how many of the families here are English; I went out twice on the golf buggy, with son-in-law and daughter driving, in turn. Very friendly atmosphere! Granddaughters got massive haul of sweets. With so many young families around here, what I read into this is how many well-off people have already left high-tax UK for low-tax Dubai. Cannot see any lessening of the flow after yesterday’s move in a tax-and-spend budget towards a record 44% of GDP being taken in tax, mostly from the top 10%. Earlier daughter and I had a good breakfast at the Club House; I had Halloumi toast, very tasty. Carried on processing 17/12 Masai. Not out in the field today. 2moro daughter and I are going to concert in evening at Dubai Opera; straight to bed after that as flight home DXB to NCL at 07:25 on 2/11.
October 30th: maximum 32C, minimum 28C, light SW, sunny all day, dry. Went with daughter to Museum of the Future, an amazing futuristic site, near the Dubai Trade Center. It has several levels, including space travel, maintaining health of our biosphere (Heal Foundation of India), maintaining human health, particularly avoiding depression, transport evolution, all set in 2071. Thought provoking with solar energy dominating the future that far ahead, even in an oil-rich state. Cost a little to get in as only Pioneer tickets available – £175 for the 2 of us: I paid! Had usual walk to Club House at ttime from 17:00-18:50 where had a couple of g, seeing a male Spanish Sparrow 1, a Grey Heron, a Hoopoe 1 and picking up an extra Little Owl at dusk at 18:25; got close-ups of Common Myna 1, Laughing Dove 1, Grey Francolin 1  2. The World Golf tournament is 2 weeks away and preparations are now intense.
October 29th: maximum 32C, minimum 27C, moderate NW, sunny all day, dry. Out at 15:30 for leisurely walk to the club house of Jumeirah, seeing masses of birds on the course as they’ve seeded some bald areas! Saw three sparrow-types: 80 House Sparrow, 2 Spanish Sparrow, 1 male Dead Sea Sparrow 1  2  3  4  5, last-named a rarity in Dubai. Star bird was a female Sparrowhawk hunting along the end of the fairway: masses of prey available today! Saw 3 Hoopoe including a pair displaying, 30 Common Myna, 4 Grey Francolin 1  2  3, 8 Collared Dove 1, 8 White-eared Bulbul 1. Total was 9 bird-types, not everything counted. Made club house at 17:30 where had a couple of draught Guinness: £27 for the two; they were very friendly! Good social evening with family.
October 28th: maximum 32C, minimum 28C, moderate NW, sunny all day, dry. After morning at the ranch, catching up on 17/12 records from Masai Mara, doing some indexing, went out in afternoon to Ras al Khor a wildlife reserve 1 in Dubai on the main creek. Went to Flamingo hide no 2 (there are 3 hides) at 16:00-17:30, from which could see around 1,500 Greater Flamingo 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  12  13  14, against a backdrop of skyscrapers. Went on own using Uber both ways, costing £55 for the two journeys from the Golf Estates; it was 45 min in each direction. Also here had 5 types of bird of prey, including 2 Bonelli's Eagle (both adult 1  2  3  4, one pale head, 1 dark head), 1 Steppe Buzzard (in heavy moult, seen twice, adult 1  2), 1 Black Kite (very uniform dark plumage, not in moult, juvenile 1  2), a Western Marsh Harrier and a Shikra 1. Other birds included 3 Red-wattled Lapwing (an agitated pair 1), 2 White Stork, 4 Cattle Egret, a Great White Egret 1, 2 Grey Heron 1  2  3, 2 Gull-billed Tern 1, 1 Slender-billed Gull, 2 White Wagtail 1, in total of 21 bird-types. At Dubai Trade Center, on way, at 15:15 had 2 Pale Crag Martin, flying high-up around the tops of skyscrapers. So good trip out. Back in time for supper and good chat with family. Earlier in Jumeirah Golf Estates had 3 Grey Francolin on an old piece of desert.
October 27th: maximum 33C, minimum 29C, light NW, sunny all day, dry. Dubai is now 4 hours ahead of UK, after UK comes off summer time. Stayed on the estates today at Jumeirah Golf Estates 1, walking up to the Club House from 12:00-13:00 for coffee and again in evening from 17:30-18:30 for drink (yes, a g) and supper at an Italian restaurant there. All the residents think this weather is marvellous: I’d agree except in midday when the sun is really scorching.

Had 10 bird-types at noon, including some good photo studies: 16 Rock Dove 1, 2 Collared Dove 1, 7 Laughing Dove, 2 Hoopoe 1, 4 Ring-necked Parakeet, 5 House Crow, 4 White-eared Bulbul 1, 4 Common Myna 1, 8 House Sparrow 1, plus an Asian Desert Warbler (subsong from acacia, somewhat like a Willow Warbler). Added 3 more types in evening: 1 Grey Francolin, 2 Little Owl (a pair), a singing Song Thrush.

October 26th: maximum 33C, minimum 28C, light NW, sunny all day, dry. Some major surprises today on the Honey-buzzard front! We had a UAE-style lunch at Meridien Hotel, near the marina; I had a tuna-dish (real fish) with seaweed and swede – very tasty. Cost was 700 AED for 6 of us (£130), not that bad really, my turn next at an Italian close to our villa. Back to the ranch at ttime and daughter and I took dog Dexter for a walk from 17:00-18:00, still warm but not so searing with the sun going down at 17:42 (rising 06:23). There’s a big golf tournament at Jumeirah in mid-November, part of the World DP tour, and marquees and other buildings are being rapidly assembled. Swimming pool almost completed, outside lights installed and landscapers arrive on Monday. Son left this evening, back to London, good to see him again. Music rehearsals later, with younger granddaughter on piano grade 1 and older one on violin grade 2.

Had a detour towards airport at 14:00 seeing 4 Little Egret, 12 Rock Dove, 3 Laughing Dove. At the Meridien near the marina from 14:30-16:30 had 4 Ring-necked Parakeet, 4 Indian House Crow; on drive back at Al Thanyah had an adult Socotra Cormorant and a Crested Honey-buzzard (eastern type) over the waterways there; the raptor at 16:35 was climbing when first seen, before coming back quickly again, so presumably disturbed; it was large and long-winged so presumably orientalis race breeding in Siberia. Have some more to add, including another Crested Honey-buzzard at Jumeirah which may well have been the one seen earlier again. Here’s some background to an amazing increase in records for the eastern Honey-buzzard in Arabia:

Oriental Honey-buzzard: The species appears to be regularly wintering in small numbers (perhaps 75–100 birds) (35) in Arabian Peninsula, with records available from: Iran (36, 37), Jordan, Kuwait (38), Lebanon (39), Oman (by 2013, 124 records in Sept–May, with perhaps up to 30 wintering per year, since first in May 1996) (40, 41), Qatar (42), Saudi Arabia (now regular in winter, with three summer records) (43, 44, 45), NE Turkey (46), Yemen (including Socotra) (35) and United Arab Emirates (minimum of c. 20 each winter, occasional in summer) (35). There are also records of apparent hybrids with P. apivorus available from several Middle Eastern countries (35). Numbers 35-46 are references. Birds of the World (2020, last updated 2016).

Crested Honey Buzzard: Uncommon passage migrant & winter visitor, but apparently increasing and sometimes recorded in mid-summer. Best sites are on Abu Dhabi Island where several birds are wintering every year, particularly Mushrif Palace Gardens and the surrounding gardens. Another reliable site in Dubai during winter is Mushrif National Park. Watch for raptors at the large car-park located at 25.214628N, 55.450181E; it is best to visit mid-morning. This species has also proven to be semi-regular at Hamraniyah Fields in the far north and in the greater Dubai area, in Al Ain it seems Ain al-Fayda has a few wintering birds; it also winters in some years in the plantations on Sila'a Peninsula in the far west. UAE birding Key sites.

Recent status and occurrence of Crested Honey Buzzards Pernis ptilorhynchus in the Arabian peninsula, with emphasis on Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates An attempt to correct for this overall increase in observer effort, Figure 3 illustrates the total number of bird-days recorded for the species annually from 2005 (data for all species for previous years has not yet been fully computerised) to 2013, expressed as percentage of all records in the UAE bird database. Figure 3 confirms that the marked increase in records of CHB in the UAE since 2005 appears genuine and is not an artefact of observer activity. As well as increasing markedly in numbers, CHB is now widely recorded across the UAE. ResearchGate

Here’s report of late afternoon walk: 5 Grey Francolin, 12 Rock Dove, 7 Collared Dove, 10 Laughing Dove, 1 Western Reef Heron, 1 Grey Heron, 1 Song Thrush singing at dusk, 1 Crested Honey Buzzard (orientalis, Pernis ptilorhynchus orientalis), not far from where one seen earlier. At 17:00 a long- and broad-winged, large, Honey-buzzard of eastern type, was flying to E at moderate height in smooth glide with occasional flaps, mobbed by some House Crow. Presumed the same bird). 50 Ring-necked Parakeet, 7 House Crow, 6 White-eared Bulbul, 1 White-spectacled Bulbul, 26 Common Myna, 1 Graceful Prinia. Up to 21 species now.

October 25th: maximum 34C, minimum 29C, light NW, sunny all day, dry. Did some pottering around in morning, looking at daughter’s mansion in the Jumeirah Golf Estates, in final stages of makeover with swimming pool opening next week; it’s worth some $5m. Dubai is the opposite of the UK: the former is in massive expansion in all respects, while the latter is in steady decline, driven by a net-zero death-wish, a subject which has never been debated properly in the House of Commons. We went on a formal desert trip in the evening, to the desert reserve 1  2  3 in the SE of the county, approaching Oman. Our guide Duncan, from South Africa, was very good with the chat, the driving and the culture. We saw the three deer types: Oryx (back from brink of extinction) 1, Arabian Gazelle 1, Arabian Sand Gazelle 1. Also included was falconry (with a Lanner 1  2, not counted! And granddaughters 1  2. And sunset 1  2), a 4-course meal in a Bedouin-style tent, star gazing directed by Duncan. A brilliant trip, which we all enjoyed from 15:00-22:20, driving some 70km in each direction. No wind-mills in the UAE as they do not want them to kill their revered falcons and other raptors. But they are building large solar farms. Abu Dhabi, part of UAE, is a massive oil and gas producer, leaving Dubai to do the tourist and business side.
Birds in the desert included a Great Grey Shrike, perched on a bush, 4 Slender-billed Gull 1w 1  2, at a watering hole, a Hoopoe, 70 Laughing Dove, 2 Collared Dove, 1 Rock Dove, 10 White-eared Bulbul, 90 House Sparrow, 1 Striolated Bunting, 2 Streaked Scrub Warbler, 1 Northern Wheatear male, 11 types in all. On the way at a world-class camel racing centre near Le Hemaira, we had 5 Common Myna, 3 Laughing Dove, 1 Indian Roller. Earlier in Jumeirah Golf Estates we had in the midday heat 2 Collared Dove, 6 Common Myna, 1 Hoopoe, 1 Laughing Dove, 8 White-eared Bulbul, 1 Barn Swallow, 22 Rock Dove, 1 Indian Roller (carrying a large flying insect) 1, 1 Indian House Crow. So 15 species on day.
October 24th: maximum 15C, minimum 10C, light S, sunny spells, dry. Now in DXB at 02:30 (25/10) after flight of 7 hours 15 min; met by daughter who lives here so settling in now. In terms of UK time it’s 3 hours ahead! Flight here was interesting route in that went just to S of Gaza and Aqaba, avoiding Israel and Palestine, moving over Jordan and Saudi in the home straight. We should have gone over north of Lebanon, Syria and Iraq but presumably worries persist over this area.

Nick Rossiter 2026