Trip Report to Kenya via Addis Ababa Airport, Ethiopia, January 6th-27th 2021
Nick Rossiter
This is a diary of a very welcome break in Kenya just as lockdown no.3 started.
Kenya: 183 species from 402 records, 12 complete lists, 17 places (all species assumed countable). Full records here
Ethiopia: 8 species from 8 records, 1 complete list, 1 place (all species assumed countable). Full records here
A summary of raptor numbers in Kenya is here. Grand total was 217 raptors of 35 types: 5 vulture, 10 eagle, 3 harrier, 3 kite, 2 accipiter, 3 buzzard, 4 falcon, plus singles of owl, honey-buzzard, osprey, harrier-hawk, secretarybird. This was the main focus of my attention but the animals were also recorded completely with the aid of my skilled guides.
A summary of other animal numbers in Kenya is here. This includes single fish, snake, crocodile and dolphin, plus 19 types of mammal, with 3 of the big 5 (lion, buffalo, elephant), hippopotamus, giraffe, 10 types of antelope, 2 types of monkey/baboon and 2 types of rodent. Overall total was 23 animal-types with 21 on safari in Tsavo East (595 individuals). Away from the safari had Yellow Baboon at Marafa and Bottle-nosed Dolphin (plus fish) at Watamu Marine Reserve.
January 27th: max 6C, min 0C, dull, drizzle, light E breeze. Made it!! It was 29.5 hours door to door, starting at 12:00 26/1 EAT in Watamu, finishing at 14:30 27/1 GMT (EAT-3) in Ordley. London was not so chilly but really felt the cold in Newcastle and Hexham with lower temperatures here, and big winter coat in the car, obviously not taken to Kenya. Journey went well, landing early at 06:09 at LHR; had reasonable sleep with 2 empty seats next to me: could lie on them and get feet off the floor. Got through passport control quickly. I had my phone with the locator form and my certificate all ready in the queue and was instead diverted by an officer to the automatic gates with no checks -- must have looked honest and of course he could see I was ready to present. Everything went smoothly except for the Heathrow Express where a new train broke down for 45 min! All the officials I met everywhere were friendly and supportive, no snide remarks or hassle. Kept Underground to a minimum just doing Paddington – KGX on Circle Line. To NCL, had 1st class seat on train for £48 and travelled on the new Azuma series for the first time, impressive acceleration. I managed to get my car from the airport at Newcastle, even though the airport was closed at the time: it started 1st time in the cold and damp. Finally did a big shop at Waitrose for £70. First thing back home was to light the big fire, which did but still feel cold. But think the house will be really warm after keeping the fire in overnight. So I'm in isolation for 9 more days, shall not bother with 5 days release as attractions are closed. Will undoubtedly crash out tonite: was a gr8 reunion with the fancied one: xxxxx XXX!!!!!!
January 26th: max 30C, min 24C, sunny all day, light NE breeze, dry. Up at 9 for last breakfast, same every day of fruit juice (mango/water melon/pineapple), fresh fruit (mango, watermelon, banana, pineapple), Spanish omelette with bacon, tomato and toast, black coffee: my favourite meal of the day out here. Soon back to Shreddies with milk, ½ a grapefruit, cranberry juice, tea with fresh lemon, followed a little later by Marmite on toast and coffee. Fond farewells to all the staff at Villas Watamu; settled my refreshments bill for items not in half-board deal for $360. Had taxi with George from 12:00-14:30 to take me from Watamu to MBA, in very smooth drive, cost $65, plus 2k KSh tip. At MBA you go through security first, then checked-in, having to present my UK locator form on 'phone in the Downloads section (don't rely on WiFi connection!) and my PCR Covid test certificate. Both accepted and boarding cards issued. That was far faster than expected so 2.5 hours to wait in departure area for lift-off MBA-ADD at 17:30 EAT, with no WiFi but did find a cafe, Kwaheri, where spent last 1k KSh. Currently at ADD at 21:25 EAT waiting for 9-hour flight to Heathrow: all going well!! 09:30 ex-KGX hoped-for
Birds noted in Kenya today included: at Kilifi, 12 Bee-eater (European) feeding actively around a clump of trees and 7 House Sparrow; NE Mombasa 2 Fork-tailed Drongo; Mombasa Airport 2 Swallow (ours!), 4 Feral Pigeon, 6 House Crow.
January 25th: max 30C, min 24C, sunny after early morning haze, light NE breeze. Bit of a tense day waiting for Covid test results, which hadn't materialised by 18:00, so contacted manager who 'phoned clinic, retrieving results on WhatsApp in 3 minutes! Results were 'somewhere in the system'! Good thing I asked! Test result was -ve , dated for Sunday. Found pan-African test registration system unusable but gather printed certificate will do. Completed passenger locator form for UK but couldn't check-in for Ethiopian Airlines flights: software problems (in retrospect, blocked as want to see locator/PCR forms). Computers are being used evermore to control us but they don't work well: chaotic interfaces (without proper testing outside of the development team), uncertain reliability (often very poor transaction design), poor focus, mean we'd be better off without them in many cases, and this is from a computing professional. Completed processing of Jilore piccies, getting 27 bird-types, and added results to BirdTrack.
Kenya running totals are: 73 species from 123 records, 6 complete lists, 8 places (all species assumed countable). Groups: waders 20, gulls 5+2 subspecies, terns 5, raptors 9, herons/storks 13. Wader total is going to be remarkable!
Gave out some gratuities to the staff – 3k to head waiter, 2k to cook, 1.5k to cleaner; more to go tomorrow: 2k to reception for arranging James, further 0.5k to favourite cleaner E. Tuned in at 22:00 EAT for the big event: very impressed with the acting and the story line. Such drive to keep the Festival going in this 'impossible' year! Return starts from the hotel at 12:00 EAT: looking forward to it surprisingly enough!!
January 24th: bit cooler today and noticeable, max 30C, min 24C, sunny after early morning haze, light NE breeze. Up at 05:55 for start of trip at 06:30 with James; we drove out Tsavo-way up to Jilore Lake 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19, a large natural lake, for a walk around about 1/3 of it up until 10:30. It was pretty testing, up and down the sides of the lake in the heat, but coped very well. James had brought a chair in case I keeled over but no need: did sit on it for photo of me against the lake which has come out well 1; he was amazed at my fitness!! But am of course used to walks off the beaten track; ants were a problem, learnt new Swahili term haraka haraka (quick quick) when you're standing near a boiling red-ant nest; had a few bites, even up my shorts (!) but am used to wood ant in the Tyne Valley, which are probably more threatening! Added plenty of good wetland species and also found a perched Honey-buzzard (adult female) and 2 flying kite. Much more to follow from a great morning's fieldwork in wild African countryside, outside the parks, cost £100. So finished on great terms with James: he's added a lot to my holiday! He'd wisely employed a local guide from the village to help; gave him 1k KSh; if locals see how people value their wildlife, they'll take more interest in maintaining it. No more trips planned; expect to get test result Monday pm and depart hotel Tuesday lunchtime.
All times on the time-stamped photos are in GMT. EAT is GMT+3.
Full bird list today for Jilore was 35 types: 1 Little Grebe, 1 Black Crake 1 2 3, 35 Spur-winged Goose 1 2 3 4 5 6 7, 3 African Pygmy Goose (pair plus single 1 2), 1 Glossy Ibis 1, 1 Black Kite 1 2, 1 Yellow-billed Kite 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13, 1 Honey-buzzard (10330 adult female 1 2, a female perched in a 'dead' tree briefly then flew off towards ground), 20 African Darter 1 2 3 4, 5 Intermediate Egret 1 2 3, 12 Cattle Egret 1 2, 1 Black-headed Heron, 17 African Open-bill 1 2 3 4, 1 Squacco Heron 1, 4 Greenshank, 4 Ruff 1 2 3 (last one, 2 birds), 10 Wood Sandpiper 1 2 3 4 5, 4 Three-banded Plover 1 2, 3 Kentish Plover, 1 Ringed Plover 1, 4 Spur-winged Lapwing 1 2 (distraction display), 12 African Jacana 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9, 1 Common Tern, 2 White-browed Coucal 1, 1 Lilac-breasted Roller 1, 4 House Crow, 4 White-throated Bee-eater, 1 Northern Carmine Bee-eater 1 2 3, 2 Emerald-spotted Wood-dove 1 2, 7 Pied Kingfisher, 20 Swallow, 1 Yellow-headed Wagtail 1 (Yellow Wagtail from the Volga, lutea), 12 Village Weaver, 1 Eastern Golden Weaver, 34 Yellow-fronted Canary.
On route had some raptors on the link rough road between Gedi and Tsavo at Arabuko from 10:30-11:00, a Long-crested Eagle up in commanding style over some woodland, a Lizard Buzzard giving great close-up views on some wires 1 2 3 4, and a Red-necked Falcon perched on the wires. So 38 bird-types for trip.
January 23rd: max 31C, min 24C, sunny after mid-morning, light NE breeze. Processed records from yesterday completely, including labelling all piccies and adding to BirdTrack. The gulls were very interesting with heuglini, cachinnans, fuscus. Today had 2 White-rumped Swift up over my hotel at 13:30, together with a Village Weaver in the trees. Have another trip out tomorrow morning, early-on at 6:30 to a lake at the back of Sokoke Forest with James, returning as soon as it gets hot!
Running total from smallish subset of records fully processed on BirdTrack for Kenya to 21/1: 53 species from 81 records, 4 complete lists, 6 places (all species assumed countable), with groups waders 16 types, gulls 4, terns 4, storks/herons 10, birds of prey 9.
Ethiopia totals for 6/1 may be the final ones as, on return, arrive there and leave at night. 7 species from 7 records, 1 complete lists, 1 places (all species assumed countable), with groups birds of prey 2 types.
January 22nd: max 31C, min 25C, more cloud extending up to early afternoon before strong sunshine, UV rating here is usually 12 around midday – avoid exposure, light NE breeze. Had nose and throat swabs taken at a clinic in Malindi at 09:20 as part of returning Covid test. Cost £91, compared to that at NCL £99. The samples go to a Wellcome laboratory at Kilifi for analysis with result Monday afternoon by email. If -ve then complete online Kenya exit forms and UK entry forms. Driver George (airport driver) took me and we went on a tour of Malindi afterwards, visiting Vasco de Gama Pillar 1 2 3 4 commemorating his visit in 1498 on a Portuguese boat. I remembered this pillar from earlier visit as a good way to spend 500 KSh to get a great view of the coast both to N and S 1 2 3 4 5 6. Some fishermen were hauling in a net to N, 'helped' by 10 Heuglin's Gull heuglini adult from Russia and a Caspian Gull cachinnans 1w 1 2 3 4 5 6 from eastern Europe (classical structure, as found at Grindon Lough in Northumberland!), plus a LBBG 3w fuscus from northern Scandinavia with SE migratory path. Delighted to see the Heuglin's Gull, from Siberia, mentioned as the main winter-visiting large gull in my guide (Stevenson); they have a more LBBG profile than the Steppe Gull, which are more like Caspian. Here's the piccies for Heuglin's: group of 6 adult with LBBG 3w fuscus 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 (the LBBG is the smaller, more attenuated individual with black tip to bill); group of 3 adult 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 (11 shows Lesser Crested Tern and Sooty Gull in flight, 11, 15, 23 shows Lesser Crested Tern in flight; 24 shows bird with wings open and 2 others calling); group of 2 adult 25 26 27 28 29 (25 shows an adult with wings open, 27 shows the Caspian Gull 1w and Lesser Crested Tern in flight, 28,29 show 3 adult Sooty Gull); single adult 30 31 32 (31 shows the bird taking off, 32 shows a distant perched bird with 10 Lesser Crested Tern). Also had great views of the local Sooty Gull (16 adult in all 1 2 3 4 5) and a Tawny Eagle up over the bush at Msabaha as drove N. I also visited the Vasco de Gama Chapel 1 2 3 4 5, built before 1542. Malindi is quite smart in the centre with many boutiques, bars and restaurants, and thriving night life. I had a cappuccino and croissant at a trendy cafe Karen Blixen, where people were sitting around socialising, just like I used to do in Hexham and Newcastle: how nostalgic!! Malindi is dominated by Italian businesses and tourists; the population is mainly Muslim but all kinds of Christianity exist. Cost to driver for 4 hours was 4.5k KSh (£32), including 0.5KSh bonus. Had 1 hour on Skype with mates N/D; they are so sour on my presence here but since both have been housebound now for 11 months, think they've become like institutionalised prisoners.
Bird list from Malindi today 09:20-12:00: 16 Sooty Gull adult, 10 Heuglin's Gull adult, 1 Caspian Gull 1w, 1 LBBG fuscus 3w, 12 Lesser Crested Tern, 1 Caspian Tern, 1 Grey Plover, 4 Curlew Sandpiper, 2 Greenshank, 2 Marsh Sandpiper, 1 Turnstone, 1 Grey Heron, 50 House Crow, 1 Pied Crow, 1 House Sparrow, 4 Feral Pigeon, 3 Common Swift (ours!). That's 17 types, added to BirdTrack. Birds at Msabaha on way N to Malindi at 09:00 included the Tawny Eagle, 2 Greater Blue-eared Starling, 6 House Crow, 4 Feral Pigeon.
January 21st: max 32C, min 26C, sunny afternoon, cloudy in morning with few spots of rain, light NE breeze. A second day at base enjoying the sunshine, food, drink and setting. Have completed work on boat trip records – pleased with that, all listed below. Have drunk the hotel out of Guinness, now onto Tusker Light! Cannot travel on BA on 27/1 from LHR-NCL as no flights that day so back on train!!
January 20th: max 32C, min 26C, sunny afternoon, cloudy in morning, light NE breeze. Chill-out day by the pool! Had a flock of 8 (European) Bee-eater over hotel at 17:00 calling loudly.
January 19th: max 33C (hottest to date), min 24C, sunny all day, light NE breeze, dry. Had a great day out in the private boat trip (base cost £120), seeing c40 dolphins, doing a close-up tour of the shore of Mida Creek from the seaward-side, having lunch with (yes!) live entertainment and dancing, including yours truly out there in the heat!! Day started inauspiciously with stomach ache followed by the inevitable, so was out with the Imodium, taking 3 capsules in a few hours, which worked so well that was able to do justice to the lunch (steak and kingfish, with rice and toast) and join in the dancing. Now using rehydration techniques – Guinness and some blackcurrant rehydration sachets, made up from tap water with purification tablets added. I have a bag full of medical supplies, including Malo (anti-malarial capsules, one per day), a mosquito repellent cream, vitamin D capsules, Ibuprofen, plasters. The bed is enclosed by a net all round at night and all the windows are covered on the outside by metal gauze. Have the odd cosy visitor though: tree frogs, which hop around the place, and a gecko, which catches flies brilliantly off the lights in the evening. I did put one tree frog outside but think it came back the next day with a few friends (whose place is this really, mate!). Off for breakfast now (09:00 EAT) – more later!!
The Watamu Marine Reserve 1 2 3 4 is fantastic with wide sandy (coral-generated) beaches and a mangrove swamp all along the edge in Mida Creek. The scenery was stunning, including the beech and the sea towards the coral reefs. The team was James (guide), me and catering manager (!). We first sailed c09:30 to the S end of the Reserve where c40 Bottle-nosed Dolphin, same species as at Cromarty in Scotland but different race (Indo-Pacific), were performing well for 4 boats that were out. Here's a clip and some stills 1 2 3 4 5 6; the watchers have their attractions too 1. There were very few seabirds around from 09:30-11:00 but did have an Osprey (sitting in a tree overlooking the harbour 1 2 3 4 5), a Wedge-tailed Shearwater, 7 Lesser Crested Tern, a Sooty Gull, plus 2 House Crow on the beach. A popular sport is kite surfing, particularly with Italian men 1 2 3.
On the outside of the creek we had a flock of 28 Grey Plover (1-6 standing 7 in flight) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7, 2 Kittlitz's Plover (see 3, 7 Grey Plover), 2 Saunder's Tern 1 2 and a Whimbrel (see 7 Grey Plover): every holiday in Africa I see a Whimbrel, even though they are a high-latitude breeder from the frozen N. Also in this area 1 2 3 4 5 we had 3 Little Egret 1, 2 Great Egret 1 2, 4 Intermediate Egret 1, 2 Grey Heron, 5 Sacred Ibis 1, 1 Yellow-billed Stork. So that's 10 types. Inside the Creek we made Wasini Island, where we collected lunch in pans from a hotel and sailed to a beach with covered area, where we had lunch of chicken/rice (course 1) and steak/kingfish/toast (course 2). Lunch is always a very relaxed, sociable and long-drawn out event in Kenya: pole pole (pronounced poley poley) is a very popular saying in Swahili: it means slowly slowly! Then followed the Wasini Island dance troupe in live performance. Here's clips of the preparation and the dance/song with additional stills 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9. Here's my dance with the troupe in a skirt: clips of the invitation (insistence!) and the actual dance plus some stills 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9. As sole traveller I was the only funder of the dancing and purchases from the jewellery tables: I did my best, donating in all guises 4k KSh (£30) to local funds.
Birds in this area, well inside the Creek 1 2 3 away from the sea, included: 4 Greenshank 1 2 3 4 5, 1 Marsh Sandpiper, 40 Sanderling (in 4 flocks, going out towards sea-coast 1), 1 Little Stint (with Greenshank, see 5), 2 Woolly-necked Stork 1 2 3 4, 1 African Fish Eagle (adult), 1 Yellow-billed Kite juvenile, sitting in middle of canopy in a mangrove tree, refusing to budge, keeping wary eye on us 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 plus another in flight 1, 3 Black Kite, 2 Pied Kingfisher 1, 6 Whimbrel 1 2, 1 Curlew 1, 2 Grey Plover, 1 Common Sandpiper, 1 Saunder's Tern 1, 6 Black-headed Heron 1 2 3 4, 4 Grey Heron 1, 7 Little Egret 1, 1 Great Egret 1 2, 1 Sacred Ibis 1, 40 Crab-plover 1 2 3 4 5 6 7, 2 Intermediate Egret 1, 2 Yellow-billed Stork 1 2, 50 Red-billed Quelea (2 flocks of 30 and 20 1 2). Total for all of Mida Creek was 24 bird-types.
Have changed return plans: now coming straight home on 27/1 by BA flight (very tight) or train; so going to isolate, not visiting daughter!
January 18th: lazy day, max 32C, min 25C, cloudy all morning, sunny afternoon, dry. Felt quite hot in afternoon though only 1 degree up! Completed processing of Sabaki piccies, putting 31 species through to BirdTrack, as below: very pleased with that! So little demand for boat trips at present but offered by James £120 private trip tomorrow to see dolphins and visit desert island; so taken up and hope lunch is better! Also got Covid test in Malindi at 09:10 on Friday for return to UK; very pleased with that removal of uncertainty after hotel manager liaised with Indian test centre! Cost is 13k KSh (£90), weekend rate: keep smiling!! 'phoned by Sele Practice, Hexham, today; told them I was away: no problem, get your jab when isolation completed!!
January 17th: max 31C, min 25C, cloudy all morning, sunny afternoon, quite a common pattern, dry. Busy processing Sabaki data, labelling many piccies and giving provisional totals below: an exciting visit! My room cleaner is losing her job on Tuesday: not enough business with Covid; gave her a bonus to try and cheer her up; people forget the devastating effect of travel bans on developing countries; she will not get any furlough. Entertainment business is also knackered here – no live music! Trying for a more grockle-oriented theme at Watamu on Tuesday: full day in glass-bottomed boat to see dolphins, the coral reefs, fishes and of course birds!
January 16th: max 30C, min 24C, sunny nearly all day, light NE breeze, humidity 60%, sunrise 06:22, sunset 18:41, 3.34 deg S of equator, 40.03 deg E of Greenwich (a little E of Moscow at 37 deg E). Dawn and dusk are very sharp, happening quickly, day length is around 12 hours all year but actual times drift a little to do with the way we measure time. Today's trip was a full day – 08:00-20:00 with driver and guide James, going N beyond Malindi to the Sabaki River Delta, a major international bird reserve. The river has 3 names: Athi in the Kenyan highlands, Galana in the middle and Sabaki at the coast. Vast amounts of silt come down the river so the delta is fantastically rich. The walk there from 09:10-11:10 was a test in the strong sunshine, on the edge of a mangrove swamp and through sand dunes 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 to the beach 8 9 10, far removed from Mediterranean-style, with breakers from the ocean on the wide beach and the only humans a few fishermen 11 with their catch 12 13. Some cattle knew their way to the river to drink 14. We also made the estuary 15 16 with its amazingly rich birdlife. Here's the view of Malindi from Sabaki 17. Here's the gang walking back through the dunes 18: I'm at the rear! Associated with the mangrove swamp was this monster crab 19. The star bird is Lesser Flamingo of which many feeding in the rich mud. But there were also lots of waders, terns and herons, plus a Yellow-billed Kite and a Palm-nut Vulture adult. Most interesting for me were the gulls, just a few, but they are winter visitors with 2 large gulls (1 adult, 1 1w), thought to be Steppe Gull Larus barabensis, with some characteristics of Caspian Gull in small head, long fine bill with uniform-width, long legs. These would be from the N but there was another large very dark gull, an adult Kelp Gull, from the S, maybe RSA. A further large gull was a 2w Heuglin's Gull with shorter legs than the Steppe Gull, standing near the 1w Steppe. Also had 29 Sooty Gull, the main local species; it's a very dark gull so easy to pick out. On the road we went through Mambrui at 11:20 where picked up 2 Black Kite and a Yellow-billed Kite, lurking by side of road, up in air. Next stop was further N again to the Gongoni Salt Pans from 11:45-13:10, a massive area, devoted entirely to the flooding of a pan with salt water, allowing the water to evaporate in the hot sun and then digging out the salt deposits left behind 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14. This area held huge numbers of Lesser Flamingo, waders, herons, darters, terns, and a few gulls: 7 Slender-billed Gull adult mainly sitting on a sand bank packed with African Darter, Great Cormorant and African Spoonbill. This gull comes from an area south of the Steppes. Also had a Steppe Gull adult in the distance giving total of 3 for the day (2 adult, 1 1w). So 5 types of gull for the day, well up to expectations, to add to the Grey-headed Gull at Mida Creek on 8/1. At this point we were 250km from the border with Somalia (the closest ever been; my travel policy excludes areas within 60km of the border) and the countryside is noticeably more arid. We then came back towards Malindi for lunch at a restaurant, which had seen better days, like much of Malindi (most of the trade has moved to Watamu as it's perceived as safer). The Blue Marlin, a hotel where we'd stayed in Malindi as family in the 1990s, is on the edge of closure. Service was so slow and my teeth couldn't handle the tough chicken, obviously from an old bird indeed! Final stop from 15:50-18:20 was the amazing Hell's Kitchen at Marafa (50km inland from Gongoni), a fantastic landscape with very uneven erosion 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18, giving an effect like the Grand Canyon. We had another challenging walk around the whole area, which was great for keeping fit. The scenery is stunning. Here's 2 piccies of yours truly at the site, first solo, second with guide James and driver 1 2. Then we drove back to Watamu, which seemed to take ages as Saturday nite was in full swing in Malindi and Watamu, with all bars and restaurants open until curfew at 22:00. A road block N of Malindi was meticulous, suspect they were looking for Al Shabaab sympathisers. Good to see some nite life again! Cost for trip was £150 (21k KSh), reasonable since it was tailored for me! Feeling a little weary after the trip but very satisfying in all respects. Watching the UK return with interest: certainly a Covid test here 72 hours before departure and 10 days quarantine on arrival but see they're thinking of other measures. NCL may not even be open at this rate! Sele practice, Hexham, has offered me a Covid vaccination from 19/1: will take at 1st opportunity. Total was 54 bird species for the day.
Birds at Sabaki River Delta included: Lesser Flamingo 680+ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11; Sacred Ibis 1 1, Yellow-billed Stork 3 1 2 3 4, Grey Heron 3, Black-headed Heron 1, Little Egret 6, Great Egret 2; Yellow-billed Kite 1 1 2, Palm-nut Vulture 1 adult 1 2 3 4 5 6; Sooty Gull 29 (23 adult 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17, 2 adult and 1 1w together 18 19, and 3 1w 20 21 see also Steppe Gull piccie 11), Kelp Gull 1 adult 21, Steppe Gull 2 (1 adult 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9, and 1 1w 10; these birds are intermediate between Heuglin's Gull and Caspian Gull in structure and, for the adult, mantle shade), Heuglin's Gull 1 2w (piccie 10 shows a 2w, also 11), Caspian Tern 2, Lesser Crested Tern 32 1, Greater Crested Tern 7 1, Common Tern 2, Sandwich Tern 2; waders 14 types: Bar-tailed Godwit 40, Marsh Sandpiper 6, Greenshank 6, Whimbrel 1, Curlew Sandpiper 8, Ringed Plover 11, Kentish Plover 4, Grey Plover 140, Sanderling 1, Black-winged Stilt 4, Spur-winged Lapwing 2 (distraction display), Senegal Lapwing 3, Redshank 1, Crab Plover 2, White-throated Bee-eater 3 (pair), Lilac-breasted Roller 2, Pied Kingfisher 2, House Crow 4, Swallow 25. So 37 species in all!
Birds at Mambrui included: Indian House Crow 4, House Sparrow 3 1 2, Black Kite 2, Yellow-billed Kite 1 1 2, White-throated Bee-eater 1, Northern Fiscal 1. So 6 species in casual observations.
Birds at Gongoni Salt Pans included: Pied Crow 1 1, Indian House Crow 1 1, Lesser Flamingo 120 1 2 3 4 5 6, Sacred Ibis 6, Great Cormorant 16 (14 adult 1 2, 2 immature 3), Reed Cormorant 1, African Darter 10 (8 adult 1 2 3, 2 immature 4 5), African Spoonbill 6 1, Oystercatcher 3 1, Curlew Sandpiper 130 1 2 3 4, Black-winged Stilt 24 1 2 3 4 5, Little Stint 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7, Marsh Sandpiper 1 1, Redshank 1, Great Egret 2 1 2, Little Egret 5, Intermediate Egret 1 1, Slender-billed Gull 7 adult 1 2 3 4 with Caspian Tern 5 6 7 8 8 10 11 12, Steppe Gull 1 (adult 5, large gull, fairly light mantle shade, not as slim as Caspian Gull, with Lesser Flamingo), Greater Crested Tern 2, Lesser Crested Tern 2, Caspian Tern 6 1 2 3 4, Pied Kingfisher 1, Swallow 1, Fork-tailed Drongo 3. So 25 species in all.
Birds at Hell's Kitchen, Marafa, included: Black-bellied Starling 4 1 2, White-throated Bee-eater 8 1 2, European Roller 1 1, Purple-crested Turaco 1, Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush 2 (same as in Europe). Animals here included 15 Yellow Baboon 1 2 3 4.
January 15th: weather you've guessed it – same! Made great progress on data 10/1, day 1 of safari, giving some provisional totals below, with still some material to process fully. But no let-up, full day out tomorrow with James, visiting Malindi estuary and surrounding hotspots; should be a great day, exploring the coast, starting at 08:00 EAT. Some more people have arrived in hotel tonight from India: no details yet! Did have Skype call with N/D, most critical of my presence here but unrepentant; they've isolated for 11 months and are showing the strain. But we ended on good terms!
January 14th: max 30C, min 24C, cloudy in morning, sunny in afternoon, light NE breeze. Carried on working on results, wrapping up 8/1 Mida Creek and doing complete run through and labelling of piccies from 10/1, day 1 of safari. I need to upload the piccies and index them when I'm back in the UK, but mentally that's a much less daunting task than starting from scratch. That was one of the ideas for spending much longer out here (as well as escaping the snow and solitary confinement!). Life in the hotel is very relaxing if a little quiet but they've laid on a supply of Guinness, the African variety – 6.5%, not 4.1%, wow! Finding 2 cold showers a day makes you feel fitter! Next day trip is scheduled for 16/1 with a trip to the local marine reserve in a glass-bottomed boat a couple of days later. Did the animals for 10/1 today, doing the birds for 10/1 tomorrow when also hope to have a Friday Skype session with my mates at 14:00 GMT (17:00 EAT); finding being 3 hours ahead of events in the UK is a little weird, since I'm normally trailing events with my late hours! Market-wise there are benefits to being ahead of the UK but the US/Canada is more difficult as they don't even open until 17:30 EAT and close at 24:00 EAT. EAT is Moscow-time! So all's good (or 'well' for better English!).
Birds at Watamu in short stroll around my hotel grounds 10:10-10:30 included: 2 Hadada Ibis, 1 House Crow, 3 Common Bulbul, 1 African Golden Oriole, 4 African Palm Swift, 3 African Pied Wagtail, 4 Ring-necked Dove (singing), 2 Laughing Dove (singing), 2 Red-eyed Dove (singing), 3 Sombre Greenbul. 10 types. In the evening had an owlet by the pool at 20:00 – African Barred Owlet 1.
January 13th: max 30C, min 24C, cloudy in morning, sunny in afternoon, light NE breeze. Anchored to hotel by pool: very relaxing; did a lot of work on 8/1 Mida Creek, labelling the piccies; think this is a good way to work, sorting out id problems while here. Plan to add animal totals for safari next, and piccies when I get back. Regular barman has left, bit irregular in Passengers context (where he's a droid) but await new one tomorrow; no sign of Jennifer Lawrence yet!! Gave him bonus of £20, which he appreciated very much! Very happy with responses to my birthday, particularly one.
January 12th: max 22C, min 15C, damp with light showers and few glimpses of sunshine in morning at Tsavo, light NE breeze. Finished safari, breakfast at 06:30, out at 07:00, leaving the park at 11:30 with a puncture, requiring a wheel change, which driver did quickly as if done many times before! Back at hotel at 13:00; they (guide James, driver John) were well pleased with their bonuses of 4k KSh each. Added 2 more Honey-buzzard, plus a Common Kestrel with many Montagu's/Pallid Harrier hunting in the long grass. Here's a shot of the craggy peaks around Voi 1. Had an interesting encounter with a bull elephant, which very reluctantly got off the track in front of us; then he turned to face us 30m away, ears flapping, trumpeting loudly and breaking a branch off a tree in his annoyance (displacement activity!). These lone bulls are the main menace to humans; frustrated without any access to females in a herd and often horny: they are the classical testosterone-loaded young male hooligans! Private safari was brilliant with great opportunities to study the birds, as well as the animals, with just me to satisfy. Back to the coast for a nap; weather here was same as on arrival, 30C max, 24C min. WiFi struggling this evening so late posting. Quite a good birthday present but the safari was the best marker!! I continue as a boring Capricornian!
Animals recorded today, all Tsavo East, included: Common Eland 1 1 2 3 4, Impala 114 1 2 3 4, Water Buck 7 1, Grant's Gazelle 1, Plains Zebra 13 1 2 3, Reticulated Giraffe 6 1 2, East African Oryx 7, African Bush Elephant 20 1 2 3 4 including a few very angry lone bulls 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12, Cape Buffalo 40 1 2 3 4 5 6, Rock Hyrax 1 1, Yellow Baboon 12 1 2 3, Nile Crocodile 1 1 2 3 4.
Raptors recorded today, included: Tsavo East, Voi area 07:00-09:40 – Honey-buzzard 2 (1 juvenile in flight (10033) 1 2, another bird standing on top of a large mound), Wahlberg's Eagle 1 pale juvenile perched 1 2 3 4 5 6 (with Taita Fiscal 1-3), Black Kite 1 (juvenile perched 1), Tawny Eagle 3 (1 mobbed by Black-winged Hawk 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8, another perched 1 2 3), Black-winged Hawk 3 (see Tawny Eagle), Pallid Harrier 5 ringtail (1 perched with Eland behind 1 2, 1 in flight 3 4 5), Montagu's Harrier 5 ringtail 1, Martial Eagle 1, Bateleur 1, Common Kestrel 1 (female 1 2 3). That's 10 types of raptor.
Raptors recorded today, included: Tsavo East, Sala Gate area 09:40-11:00 – White-headed Vulture 1, Eastern Chanting-Goshawk 1 (juvenile 1 2 3), Secretarybird 1 1.
Raptors recorded today, included: bush after Tsavo East – Arabuko 12:00 none; Makongeni S 11:30 Eastern Chanting-Goshawk 3 (perched high-up on trees), Tawny Eagle 1.
Further birds recorded today, included: Tsavo East, Voi area 07:00-09:40 – Somali Ostrich 2 1 2, Grey Crowned Crane (pair adult 1 2 with 3 chicks 3 4), Red-backed Shrike 1 (immature male 1 2), Egyptian Goose 6 (pairs 1 2), Red-billed Quelea 10000 1 2 3, Taita Fiscal (with African Harrier-hawk), Fork-tailed Drongo 1 1, European Roller 2 1 2, Wire-tailed Swallow 6, Sacred Ibis 27 1 2, Black-faced Sandgrouse 1, African Stonechat 1, Rufous-naped Lark 3, Red-winged Lark 10, Helmeted Guineafowl 80, Harlequin Quail 30, Yellow-necked Spurfowl 15, Temminck's Courser 1, Black Saw-wing 5, White-browed Sparrow-weaver 1, Laughing Dove 1. That's 30 types for all birds.
Further birds recorded today, included: Tsavo East, Sala Gate area 09:40-11:00 – Spur-winged Lapwing 1, Hadada Ibis 1, 5 types for all birds.
Further birds recorded today, included: bush after Tsavo East – Makongeni S 11:30 Cattle Egret 25.
January 11th: max 22C, min 15C, damp start after more rain overnight, but became dry and sunny, NE light breeze. Still at Voi Lodge, looked great today in the sunshine 1 2 3 4 (morning) and 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 (afternoon). Saw a pride (8+) of lions today mopping up after a kill of a large deer, with vultures soaring overhead; also had a lone male. Masses of other sightings as out from 06:30-13:30 and 16:00-18:30 – long day for everyone. Great result today was finding 9+ Honey-buzzard in the bush of Tsavo E in quite a small area. There are c1-2 million Honey-buzzard over-wintering in Africa but everywhere it's uncommon to rare. The ones today were hiding in the lower canopy of trees and shrubs or walking around on the ground. At least 5 were flying high, over the Lion kill area, presumably to rise above the large raptors attracted to the scene. The rangers are much better at identifying African residents than these seasonal arrivals from Russia; but the Honey-buzzard does spend its first 18 months in Africa without a break as 1w birds do not move N so no excuse really. So it's the same problem as in the UK for under-recording of this species: secretive habits and poor id skills!! Fighting talk but exciting discovery! Many other Russian breeders here today: Pallid Harrier, Montagu's Harrier, Steppe Buzzard, Common Kestrel, White Stork, and more! Tomorrow is last day of this safari, up at 05:30, breakfast at 6, off at 6:30, back in Watamu for late lunch. This early schedule is not my normal style (!) but results are keeping me going and of course to bed early at 22:00.
Animals recorded today, all Tsavo East, Voi Lodge area, included: (morning drive) Coke's Hartebeest 9 1 2, Reticulated Giraffe 17 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 (including 1 young), African Bush Elephant 26 1 2 3 4 5 with a horny male here 6, Plains Zebra 3 1 2 with Red-billed Oxpecker on 2, Vervet Monkey 15 1 2 including young 3; Lion total 9, including a solitary male disappearing down a glade 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 and 8 adult in a pride (likely to have hidden young) habitat for kill 1 2, first seen 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25, with prey 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54, a Kudu kill, chase juvenile Tawny Eagle away 55 56 57; East African Oryx 8 1 2 3 4 5, Kudu 1 (prey of Lion), Impala 40 1 2 3, Water Buck 8 1 2, Yellow Baboon 10 1 2, including 3 young.
Animals recorded today, all Tsavo East, Voi Lodge area 16:00-18:30, included: (afternoon drive) Rock Hyrax 1 1, Reticulated Giraffe 13 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 with Plains Zebra 1 2, with Red-billed Oxpecker 1 2, Plains Zebra 3 1 2 3, Impala 4 1, African Bush Elephant 17 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8, Gerenuk 1 1 2 3 4 5 6, Common Duiker 4 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8.
Raptors recorded today, included: Tsavo East, Voi Lodge area 06:30-13:30 (morning drive): Honey-buzzard 8 (10334, dark juvenile in flight 07:20 1 with habitat (lush grass, scattered shrubs 2 34), 10335 juvenile in flight 07:22 3, 5 birds above Lion kill area 10:34-10:40 as a 1 12 (10337 with White-backed Vulture) and a 4 13 (10338 with vulture and eagle), 10339 grey juvenile perched in deep cover 11:46-11:50 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33), Black Kite 3 with 2 juvenile 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15, Black-winged Hawk 3 1 2 with Pallid Harrier below 16, Grasshopper Buzzard 1 adult 1 2, Montagu's Harrier 4 (1 male, 3 ringtail 1 2), Common Kestrel 3, Steppe Buzzard 4 1 2 3 4, including 1 with Pallid Harrier 5, Yellow-billed Kite 1 1 2 3, Pallid Harrier 14 (2 male 1 2, 12 ringtail 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15, including with Steppe Buzzard 5 5b above, with Black-winged Hawk 16 above, as many as 5 fed together), Secretarybird 1, Brown Snake-Eagle 1, Martial Eagle 2, Eastern Chanting Goshawk 1, Tawny Eagle 2 juvenile 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 , also see one of these chased by Lion 55 56 57 above, Rüppell's Vulture 10, White-backed Vulture 9, White-headed Vulture 5, Hooded Vulture 4, Bateleur 4, Steppe Eagle 2, Wahlberg's Eagle total 2, 1 pale form perched 1 2 3 4 5 6 7, 1 ruddy form perched 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15. That's 21 types of raptor.
Loose flock of raptors from 10:20-11:15 above Lion kill numbered 45, included above: 10 Rüppell's Vulture 1 2 3 4, 9 White-backed Vulture 1 2 3 4 5, 5 with 2 Hooded Vulture, 5 White-headed Vulture 1 2 3, 5 Honey-buzzard (see above), 4 Hooded Vulture, 4 Bateleur, 2 Steppe Eagle, 2 Tawny Eagle (see above), 2 Pallid Harrier (see above), 1 Black Kite, 1 Grasshopper Buzzard (see above).
Raptors recorded today, included: Tsavo East, Voi Lodge area 16:00-18:30 (afternoon drive): Augur Buzzard 1 1 2, Pallid Harrier 4 (1 adult male, 3 ringtail 1 2 3 4), Montagu's Harrier 4 (1 adult male 1, 3 ringtail), Lesser Spotted Eagle perched 1 1 2 3, Bateleur 1, Honey-buzzard juvenile 2, 1 brown phase in flight at 16:57 10340 1 2 3 4 5 6, 1 brown phase perched on low-lying bush at 16:22 (see Montagu's Harrier male 1), Pygmy Falcon 1 female 1 2 3 4, African White-headed Vulture 1 perched, African Fish Eagle 1 perched adult. That's 9 types of which 4 added to morning list, making 25 types of raptor for the day.
Further birds recorded today, included: Tsavo East, Voi Lodge area, 06:30-13:30 (morning drive): Von der Decken's Hornbill 1 1, Helmeted Guineafowl 100, Somali Courser 1, White Stork 30 1 2 3 4, White-browed Coucal 1 1 2, Wire-tailed Swallow 3, Barn Swallow 3, Red-billed Oxpecker 1 with Plains Zebra above 2, Common Ostrich 3 1 2 3 ( 1 also shows Somali Ostrich), Somali Ostrich 2 1, Marabou Stork 1 1 2 3, Saddle-billed Stork 1, Woolly-necked Stork 1 1, European Roller 2, Plain Nightjar 1 (rufous morph, escaping from Lion kill area), Black Saw-wing 2, African Palm Swift 5, Superb Starling 1 1, Rock Martin 1, Red-rumped Swallow 2, Common Swift 4, Northern House Martin 1, Little Swift 3, Egyptian Goose 2 1 (pair), Spotted Flycatcher 1, Rufous-naped Lark 48, Golden Pipit 1 1, White-headed Buffalo-weaver 1, Yellow-necked Spurfowl 20, Red-winged Starling 2, Black-crowned Tchagra 1, Bronze Mannikin 3, Rattling Cisticola 1, Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird 2. Total other species 34, total for all species 55.
Further birds recorded today, included: Tsavo East, Voi Lodge area, 16:00-18:30 (afternoon drive): Black-headed Heron 6 1 2 3 4 5, Red-billed Quelea 580 1 2 3, Egyptian Goose 2 1, Lilac-breasted Roller 1, Barn Swallow 2, Black-faced Sandgrouse 2, Slate-coloured Boubou 1, Red-billed Oxpecker 8 1 (on Reticulated Giraffe and Plains Zebra), Yellow-billed Oxpecker 3 1 (on Reticulated Giraffe), Namaqua Dove 1 1 2, African Palm Swift 1, Bare-eyed Thrush 2, Black Saw-wing 2, African Darter 1. That's 14 types making 23 including raptors for the afternoon drive.
January 10th: max 21C, min 15C, wet, NE light breeze. Currently at Voi Safari Lodge, Tsavo East, paradise on earth!! In Watamu, breakfast at 7, leave at 7:30, quick trip to bank, then off on private safari with James (guide) and John (driver) in classical Safari tourer. Weather went from damp to quite wet by mid afternoon but everything was really green, in the wet season, and the wildlife was absolutely amazing in abundance. Here's the rocky crags around Voi 1 2 3 4 and the Lodge itself, including views from it 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11. Not got any cats but long list of animals including elephant, giraffe, crocodile, hippopotamus, antelope; many birds of prey, including migratory, from Russia: 3 Montagu's Harrier (adult male 2, ringtail 1), 1 Pallid Harrier female, 1 Western Marsh Harrier (female), Steppe Eagle, 3 Steppe Buzzard, 1 Common Kestrel, 1 Peregrine Falcon, 6 Black Kite, plus resident Martial Eagle, Tawny Eagle, Secretarybird, Black-winged Kite, and many others. Private safari is really superb as they stop for many birds, which would be unthinkable with a party of more diverse interests, many members indeed of which are only looking for 'exciting' animals. Had late lunch and dinner at lodge, now going to bed at 22:30 to get ready for breakfast at 06:30 and more drives. Staying here 2 nights: it's very comfortable with magnificent views over the Tsavo plains. Entry to the park was through Sala Gate, where the dry bush 1 2 runs alongside the luxuriant vegetation by the side of the Galena River 1 2 3 4 5 6 (1-2 with Large Hippopotamus). So all's good.
Animals recorded today, all Tsavo East, included: Nile Crocodile 1 1 2 3, Water Buck 6 1 2, Impala 78 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8, Grant's Gazelle 3 1 2, Plains Zebra 15 1 2 3, Large Hippopotamus 26 1 2 3 4 5 6 (1-4 with Red-billed Oxpecker), African Bush Elephant 14 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8, Kudu 2, Reticulated Giraffe 12 1 2 3 4 5, Unstriped Ground Squirrel 1 1 2, Rock Hyrax 16 1, Coke's Hartebeest 4 1 2 3, plus a snake sp 1 2.
Raptors recorded today, included: bush before Tsavo East – Arabuko 08:00 Lizard Buzzard 2; Makongeni S 08:20 Eastern Chanting-Goshawk 1 (perched high-up on tree), Grasshopper Buzzard 1, Pygmy Falcon 1, Augur Buzzard 1, Wahlberg's Eagle 2.
Raptors recorded today, included: Tsavo East, Sala Gate area 09:30-12:50 – African Fish Eagle 1 (adult 1 2 3), White-headed Vulture 1 1 2 3, Bateleur 4 (1 juvenile 1 2 3), Black Kite 2, Pygmy Falcon 1 (male), Secretarybird 1 1 2 3 4 5.
Raptors recorded today, included: Tsavo East, Voi Lodge area 12:50-18:45 – African Harrier-Hawk 2 (both juvenile 1 2 3), Western Marsh Harrier 1 (female 1 2 3 4), Black Kite 4 1, Black-winged Hawk 1 1 2 3 4 5, Martial Eagle 3 1 2 3 4, Montagu's Harrier 3 (2 adult male 1 2 3 4 5 6, 1 ringtail), Pallid Harrier 1 (female 1 2), Steppe Buzzard 3 1 2 3 4, Steppe Eagle 1 1 2 3, Brown Snake-Eagle 2 1 2, Secretarybird 3 1 2 3 4, Tawny Eagle 3 1 2 3, Augur Buzzard 2, Common Kestrel 1, Peregrine Falcon 1. That's 15 types.
Further birds recorded today, included: bush before Tsavo East – Makongeni S 08:20 Vulturine Guineafowl 60 1 2 3 4 5, Great Spotted Cuckoo 1, Grey-headed Kingfisher 3 1. Here's habitat for Makongeni area, showing the lush River Galena (the Sabaki on coast at Malindi) 1 2 3 (on 10/1), and the more arid bush 1 2 3 4 5 (on 12/1). Certainly the river habitat looks good for Honey-buzzard but the arid bush may only support very low numbers.
Further birds recorded today, included: Tsavo East, Sala Gate area 09:30-12:50 – Somali Ostrich 1 1 2 3, Kori Bustard 1 1 2 3 4, Black-faced Sandgrouse 2 1 2 3, Helmeted Guineafowl 4 1 2, Black-headed Heron 5 1 2 3 4, Egyptian Goose 4, Common Sandpiper 1 1 2, Three-banded Plover 1 1 2, Spur-winged Lapwing 1 (on nest 1), Ring-necked Dove 1 1 2, Grey-headed Kingfisher 1 1 2, Pied Kingfisher 1 1, Great Spotted Cuckoo 2, Southern Ground Hornbill 2 1 2, Red-billed Oxpecker 6 1 2 3 4 with Large Hippopotamus, Flappet Lark 3. 22 types for all birds.
Further birds recorded today, included: Tsavo East, Voi Lodge area 12:50-18:45 – Egyptian Goose 6 in pairs 1 2, Black-headed Heron 1, Marabou Stork 1, Helmeted Guineafowl 200 1, White-bellied Bustard 3 1 2 3 4, Yellow-necked Spurfowl 50 1 2, Harlequin Quail 200, Great Spotted Cuckoo 2 1, White-browed Coucal 2 1 2, Speckled Pigeon 1 1, Laughing Dove 2 1 2, Ring-necked Dove 1 1, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater 1 1 2 3, Northern Red-billed Hornbill 2 1 2 3, Spur-winged Lapwing 2 1, Common Swift 20, Red-rumped Swallow 3, Rock Martin 3, Red-winged Lark 100, Lilac-breasted Roller 10, European Roller 5 1 2, Pied Crow 1, White-winged Widowbird 6 1 2, White-browed Sparrow-weaver 3 1 2, Superb Starling 2 1, Red-winged Starling 6 1, Tsavo Sunbird 1, Red-billed Quelea 20000 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9, Barn Swallow 20, Crested Francolin 6, Black-crowned Tchagra 6. 46 types for all birds.
January 9th: max 31C, min 25C, humidity 80%, dry, sunny, some low cloud morning, dispersing in afternoon, NE light to moderate breeze (spot the difference from yesterday!). Better application today on web sites and records: acclimatising a little more! Resisting turning on air-conditioning as, that way, you never acclimatise to going outside. Daughter's birthday today with card on Moonpig and 2.5k FPO; her elder daughter woke her up at 6 so she could have more of the day to enjoy! Had trip in morning with James to bank and to Visiwa, a hotel, right on the beach, overlooking the Indian Ocean 1 2 3. Had 2 African Pied Wagtail by the pool 1 and a Long-tailed Fiscal perched on scrub on an offshore island. Will probably return for a couple of day trips by tuk-tuk, which is a very cheap way of getting round. Everywhere is run by Italians, including my place, so plenty of spaghetti in the area. It's very quiet – very few visitors; the atmosphere in the bar is a bit like in the excellent film Passengers!! So really resting today in prep for the safari, which starts at 07:30 tomorrow and finishes 13:30 on Tuesday. Should be amazing!!
January 8th: max 31C, min 25C, humidity 80%, dry, sunny, some low cloud morning, dispersing in afternoon, NE light to moderate breeze. Here's piccies of hotel Villas Watamu with my bungalow 1 and pool 2. After a day of acclimatising decided to get out for walk in morning but guide James hastily assembled by hotel manager! He was superb, organising tuk-tuk to bank, and escorting me on Mida Creek 1 2 3 for a canoe expedition, from 10:20-13:00. Here's yours truly up the creek without a paddle 1.
The boat ride was very interesting giving close-up views of Black Kite (6b, migrants, black bill 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13), Yellow-billed Kite (4b, family group, juvenile seen, all near nest, adult with yellow bill 1 2 3 4 5 6 with juvenile near nest 7, adult near nest 8 9 and the nest itself 10), 1 Honey-buzzard (10331, dark-phase juvenile over nearby mound 1), Pied Kingfisher (6, family group of 3 1 2 3), 4 Little Egret 1 2 3, 6 Grey Heron 1 2 3 4 5, 6 Common Sandpiper (together) 1 2, 2 Grey Plover (with Grey-headed Gull 1w 1), 1 Grey-headed Gull (1 1w, standing in shallows in middle of creek with 2 Grey Plover 1 and in flight 2), 15 Lesser Crested Tern; we had 90 min of the canoe trip, with energy put in by someone else, the punter; some char fish 1 2 were caught by some fishermen in the mangrove swamp 1 2 3 4 5 6 (1-3 boarded walk, 4-5 mangrove trees, 6 a canoe out on water), very hard work. Total bird-types for trip was 10.
We had a drink overlooking a creek, finalising details for a private safari (just me) to Tsavo E from Sunday-Tuesday, for £800, including Voi (out of this world) lodge stays! We are going to the bank tomorrow to sort out the transfer. Critically the hotel recommends James so that increases my confidence! Indeed noticed a marked change in my status today: from a refugee from England to a HNWI!! Had 5 species casually in hotel: 4 Palm Swift, 4 Hadada Ibis, 4 House Crow, 2 Pied Crow, 1 Black Kite.
January 6th: made it: 27.5 hours travel from Ordley at 09:00 5/1 GMT to 15:30 on 6/1 EAT. All flights and connections worked perfectly: travel crew so positive in terrible straits. Quite a few people were doing the great escape on Tuesday, BA flight was 60% full, no real checks on entry but they did have 2 genial BA workers scanning us all as we went to board; some boarders were from Scotland where lockdown already in place. Paper work is frightening: not sure that anyone without digital expertise could tackle it. Flight to Addis was pretty full, social distancing was patchy; slept through most of it; route took us through the Adriatic, crossing into Africa at Alexandria, Egypt. Lovely to wake up with East Africa in view at 06:00 EAT; caught 10:10 to MBA no bother. Kenya immigration was a pain taking 2 hours; driver was there waiting and made Villas at 15:30. Pretty quiet here but great service and warmth and have bungalow near pool and dining area. Plenty of raptors: at Addis Ababa Airport 1 had 42 Hooded Vulture 1 around 9:05 and 1 Rüppell's Vulture at 09:30. Total of 8 bird-types here also included 2 Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon 1, 1 Feral Pigeon, 6 Pied Crow, 1 Rufous-naped Lark, 1 Banded Martin, 1 Greater Blue-eared Starling. Weather at Mombasa was 31C max, 25C min, sunny. On drive from Mombasa to Watamu had a Yellow-billed Kite (floating along at low altitude), a Black-winged Kite (perched in a tree at Kilifi), an immature African Hawk-Eagle and 2 juvenile Martial Eagle, last 3 perched along main road in Arabuko-Sokokhe Forest. Can indulge a little maybe!! Very sorry to hear of Festival postponement but understand!
January 4th: icy throughout day, max 1C, min -1C, a little weak sunshine, freezing rain in morning, light NE breeze. Did go into Hexham at 14:00 and had a Grey Heron up in the air at Letah Wood and a Song Thrush feeding by the roadside at Loughbrow; latter's a nice sign as this thrush is one of the first returning species in late winter. C was so quiet, may as well be closed, they said! All papers are in order for lift-off tomorrow with boarding passes, health forms, taxi ordered for MBA-Watamu, contact with hotel confirming arrival. After BA1327 NCL-LHR at 12:05, have long break before leave LHR at 20:15 on ET701 for ADD, then it's ET322 at 10:10 ADD-MBA. New lockdown starts legally at 00:00 6/1 when in skies over Africa. Relieved to see digital performances can continue for the arts so streamed performances are permitted. Also prestige football can continue, even at Torquay!
January 3rd: at 11:40 received news that 'Fit to Fly' from NPH: Covid not detected (negative result). Marvellous on all counts! Also good news in that Kenya has today revised CV regulations in the country, including maintaining the curfew from 22:00-04:00, but has not changed the entry requirements for UK citizens. You can actually go out for a meal or a beer, long way to go for that, but sounds great relief from our puritanism. The curfew is quite useful I imagine for keeping crime down and there's also a restriction on crowds gathering. Wonder if there will be any live music: marvellous thought!! Made C4c4ll and actually met a contemporary out, R; we had a coffee with good chat under the shelter of the Shambles. Later I went for walk around the Sele where some very fast tobogganing was taking place on the icy surface (more like bobsleigh!). Had chats on 'phone with P and big sis: thought latter would be telling me off for leaving my station but she's supportive! Finding Alexa very useful as a musical slave: played 2 hours of Tchaikovsky last nite and 2 hours of Prokofiev tonite. Was interested in Classic FM's spring Hall of Fame: in the top 300 Russia was the top country for entries by composer for the 1st time and no.1 was Rach 2 PC!
