Visit to Ethiopia from 7-17 February 2010: Raptors, Mountains and Churches

Nick Rossiter

Summary of Raptors Seen

Species	Mountain Park	NE Mountains Plain near Eritrea	Addis Ababa	Total
	Simien Gondar - Addi Decal 8/2-12/2	Addi Decal – Lalibela 12/2-16/2	City 7/2 16/2-17/2
Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius	135	103	79	317
Rüppell's Vulture Gyps rueppellii	47	4	23	74
Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus	18	15	1	34
Augur Buzzard Buteo augur	19	7		26
Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus	13			13
Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax	11	1	1	13
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus nominate	7	6		13
African White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus	3	9		12
Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus	1	1	3	5
African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer	1	4		5
Steppe Buzzard Buteo buteo vulpinus		5		5
African Hobby* Falco cuvierii	5			5
Black Kite Milvus migrans		2	2	4
Black Eagle Aquila verreauxii	2	1		3
Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus	1	2		3
Shikra Accipiter badius	2	1		3
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus rufescens	2	1		3
Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus	1	1		2
Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus	1	1		2
Honey-buzzard Pernis apivorus	1			1
Osprey Pandion haliaetus			1	1
Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus			1	1
Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus		1		1
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus	1			1
White-headed Vulture* Trigonoceps occipitalis	1
Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus	1			1
African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus	1			1
Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis		1		1
Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus		1		1
Black-chested Snake Eagle Circaetus pectoralis	1			1
Barbary Falcon Falco pelegrinoides		1		1
Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni		1		1
Greater Kestrel* Falco rupicoloides		1		1
Fox Kestrel* Falco alopex		1		1
Grey Kestrel* Falco andosiaceus		1		1
Total	275	172	111	558

Total 35 types of diurnal raptors seen: 1 osprey, 7 vulture, 7 eagle, 4 kite, 3 harrier, 1 sparrowhawk, 2 buzzard, 1 buzzard-hawk, 9 falcon.

Total 5 types (marked *, including 4 falcons) were new to the observer: African Hobby, White-headed Vulture, Greater Kestrel, Fox Kestrel and Grey Kestrel.

Total 558 individuals seen of the above types fairly evenly distributed over the trip but with Simien Mountains the most productive with particularly high densities.

A number of the above (11 types in all) are Eurasian breeders, which over-winter in Africa: Common Kestrel nominate, Steppe Buzzard, Black Kite, Booted Eagle, Montagu's Harrier, Honey-buzzard, Osprey, Western Marsh Harrier, Pallid Harrier, Steppe Eagle and Lesser Kestrel.

Itinerary

5/2: start had interesting problems with cat sick in car on 4km drive to cattery; then battle-axe on Hexham-Newcastle train objected to my waving the Internet printout at her and insisted on a ticket. Faced with choice of Prudhoe or Africa, voted for latter and bought ticket! The ticketing on trains in the UK is primaeval: emphasis on physical tickets is way out of date! Caught train to London at 12:35, arrived at LHR at 17:00 in time for few drinks with daughter, who told me that chances of getting on as stand-by were slim as previous day's flight cancelled. But persevered and at 21:10, 10 minutes before scheduled departure, got onto the plane for flight VS671 to have a jump seat. Two more passengers on stand-by got on the plane and were then taken off. So relieved when doors closed. It wasn't that comfortable but really pleased to get there on schedule. Son did not get on his stand-by on a direct flight to Addis but chances the next day were much better on BA flight via Amman.

6/2: plane took off an hour late but was not far off the scheduled arrival time in Nairobi of 09:00. Nice customs man gave me a transit visa and with 12 hours until flight to Addis hired a car and driver to see Nairobi National Park and the Giraffe Center. The National Park is very well laid out and the information boards are very useful. Of course it's not on the scale of the game parks but you can see beasts at close range. The habitat is semi-natural so very good for birds, ants and butterflies. The Giraffe Center is a bit of a grockle trap but you can stroke and touch them (if you're so minded to risk rabies); the centre contains this lovely old manor house. The jungle nearby is very well preserved and you can walk in it. Weather was overcast and dull but very close with high humidity and a temperature in the mid-20s. Had 4 types of raptor: Yellow-billed Kite (24, widespread from Airport-Park, 1 bird calling very stridently, at least 2 pairs displaying), Black Kite (at least one contender with shallow fork to tail and pale head), Long-crested Eagle (1, floating for ages over jungle at National Park) and Honey-buzzard (1, floating over wood with depressed long wings before gliding off purposefully some distance to E). So Yellow-billed Kite dominated in the countryside close to Nairobi's S side. The Long-crested Eagle has similar barring to Honey-buzzard and a long neck with small head so superficially similar and presumably one of the strong forms that the Honey-buzzard is mimicking. Flew at 21:30 by Kenya Airways to Addis Ababa where reached stylish Hotel Jupiter in Cazanchise near the centre at 00:30 next day, son joining me at 04:00.

7/2: up at 10:00 for as late a breakfast as you could get where met son. Then cultural day in Addis Ababa visiting 2 museums (National, Ethnography) where saw Lucy, the world's oldest woman! Indeed had lunch in Lucy Restaurant, which like many local places served mostly Italian food. Weather still mainly overcast but brighter in afternoon when temperatures rose markedly. Could not help noting the odd raptor overhead: 28 Yellow-billed Kite (common everywhere, calling, nest building), 10 Rüppell's Vulture (out displaying as soon as sun came out, truly urban birds scouring the streets, wingspan c50% greater than Yellow-billed Kite, bulging secondaries, square short tail), 2 Black Kite (less forked tail, pale head, probably under-recorded) and single Hooded Vulture and Tawny Eagle. Not bad for a city centre. Locals are very friendly. Spent some time late afternoon organising 4wd vehicle and driver from Gondar through rest of N to Lalibela. Haggled over price and settled at $160 a day. Then long argument over whether they should take a sackful of birr or more compact $. In the end they had to take the birr as that's all we had (or at least admitted to!). All sorted! Then dinner in another Italian restaurant and early to bed for 2nd night in Jupiter as very sharp start next day for flight to Gondar.

8/2: up at 04:00 for internal flight at 06:30 with Ethiopian Airlines to Gondar, which all went according to plan. Jupiter provide courtesy cars to the airport in Addis which is a great help. The hotel also has very fast broadband internet, which was useful as promised Orange roaming on mobile did not materialise anywhere in Ethiopia. On 20km drive from Gondar Airport to Gondar had 13 Yellow-billed Kite. Fantastic views over countryside in much better weather. Booked at 10:00 into Quara Hotel, which has just had a makeover: we spent £50 there in 24 hours including 2 twin rooms, breakfast, dinner, tea, a bottle of wine and quite a few Dashen and St George. It's good to support our patron saint! Gondar has a very lively atmosphere but we didn't feel threatened at all there. Saw the Debre Birhan Selassie Church, built in the 17th century, in the morning; it has an incredible collection of paintings and tapestries inside. We had lunch at a roof-top bar where the Yellow-billed Kite came very close, particularly when the barman threw a few chunks of raw meat up into the air. By midday raptors were up in spectacular numbers above the town with day totals of 70 Yellow-billed Kite (this number going to roost in the evening in one flock, need to check photos for any Black Kite), 12 Hooded Vulture (town scavengers), 8 Rüppell's Vulture (broad wings, not tapering), 2 African White-backed Vulture (both adults) and single Lammergeier (soaring with 3 other species of vultures), Lappet-faced Vulture (soaring with Lammergeier, similar size, white tarsal feathering) and Shikra (up and down very quickly, mobbing Yellow-billed Kite) for the town itself. One kettle of soaring vultures included at least 4 species. Total to date on trip is 177 raptors of 11 types. In afternoon visited the Royal Enclosure, built again in the 17th century and containing some impressive buildings, including Fasilides Castle. Last function of day was to visit an African bar for some interesting gyrations with the local lasses and think must have bought most of the locals in the bar a drink! They saw us coming!

9/2: amazingly driver and Toyota 4WD were outside hotel at 07:30 but we had to delay departure until after Dashen Bank had opened at 08:00 and we'd got out another sackful of birr to pay for the hire as we'd withheld some of the cash to encourage attendance! Slight misunderstanding with hotel manager as he thought we were doing a runner as we walked down the main street but ended all smiles and a nice tip for our charming Nubian waitress! Roads out of Gondar do not have a metallic surface so it was rough driving all the way but no potholes, hence slightly better than in the 'Shire. Went through some dramatic mountain scenery on the way to Debark, with the highlight a Lanner in territory, angrily calling, on one of the high passes. Also had single Black-shouldered Kite, Black-chested Snake Eagle, Tawny Eagle and a Common Kestrel (winter visitor, pale underparts). Yellow-billed Kite continued to be common near villages with a total of 18 seen. Made Debark at lunchtime where at HQ of Simien Mountains National Park we paid park fees and accommodation charges and hired guide and scout, latter complete with shotgun, for a total of $140 for 4 days. Debark is a wild-west style frontier town with typical town scavengers of 16 Yellow-billed Kite and 4 Hooded Vulture plus 5 Augur Buzzard on the edge. On leaving after lunch and buying supplies for everybody, to our surprise a lady jumped into vehicle – she was our cook, friend of the guide, bypassing the official hiring scheme – some scam! We're obviously doing our bit for local employment! Decided to stay in a rather basic lodge (bunk house in Scottish terms but with no electricity or gas, cooking with charcoal fire) at Sankaber for 3 nights at the very high altitude of 3,230m. We had a 2-hour training walk at end of day, going along edge of cliff, and could already see the altitude giving heavy breathing! Scenery is absolutely magnificent – rather like the Grand Canyon. Although sun was very high in the sky, temperature was only around 22º midday and plummeted at night to just above freezing so beds had good supply of blankets.

10/2: support team thought we would set out at dawn but we finally settled on an 08:30 start as we wanted to catch up on our sleep and did just that with 12-hours! Had a bonny camp fire outside our hut in the evening before which was very cosy in the coolness of the night. Pity the people who had lit the fire were so tight with the eucalyptus fuel: we didn't get through it all and this morning the remainder had been confiscated! No running water at the camp: latrines in order out in the bush, don't get caught short in the night! Anyway we had a 6-hour walk, escorted by guide and scout (with gun), from 09:00-15:00 down to a waterfall and back with temperature starting at around 5º and rising to 20º. But the sun was very powerful and it felt a lot hotter midday. The walk down was along the top of a steep ravine with fantastic scenery through rather thin woodland. The waterfall itself was rather low but the valley bottom was amazing with denser clumps of trees, undulating ground with steep edges, a few flatter meadows with scant vegetation and plenty of birds around. We had packed lunch there, attended by a very tame Thick-billed Raven who knew the score! There were plenty of Common Chiffchaff everywhere: most were calling from bushes but two did actually sing. Also had 2 wandering parties of White-rumped Bulbul, a pair of Hemprich's Hornbill, a calling Ercick's Francolin and a Common Fiscal. Walking back up from the waterfall was a challenge! The climb was steep along a track and in the altitude you had to develop a deep heavy breathing to keep going. Still was exhilarating exercise after all the sitting around in the travelling and good to keep in practice!! Got back and chilled out. Son managed to get second lunch, seems to have hit it off with the cook! We controlled the camp fire in the evening and got it really blazing in true Northumbrian style: no fuel left! The next day we were to go even higher in altitude.

11/2: so even higher in the Simien Mountains going to Chenek. Weather was very sunny but cool in the shade. We were ostensibly looking for the Walia Ibex (kind of wild goat!) but didn't see any. Someone we met said should have been there about 2 hours earlier at 09:00 (instead of having another lie-in!). We drove through a moorland-style habitat to get to Chenek before stopping to view over a very steep precipice. We were then dropped off to walk a few km into Chenek up a slope. Again we were panting very quickly at the high altitude. Walking on the flat or up a slight slope is fine but steeper climbs are not so easy. Scenery was fantastic with enormous gorges cutting into the mountains. We made it into the village (3,600m asl), which looked rather like a wild-west encampment from a movie, and then had a walk onto a promontory which had marvellous views over the mountains followed by a walk along the edge of cliffs, still looking for the ibex. Not a place for vertigo sufferers! Again no luck so had our packed lunch on the hillside overlooking the village. Here joined by some cheeky Gelada Baboon, one of which managed to steal son's rucksack complete with lunch. The guide chased the baboon and at least got the bag back but minus some food! After lunch back in the vehicle and drove up the mountain further to 3,800m asl (12,500ft), where the scenery was definitely becoming quite bleak. At these heights altitude sickness is of course a possibility but we didn't suffer any headaches, the commonest symptom. However, the effect of exertion on breathing was certainly noted. You can hear the heavy breathing on an African Hobby video! Raptors of course were again very good. Came back to Sankaber for final night there with meal and raging camp fire and very early start looming for next day! Climbed local hill at Sankaber for final scan: had clearly given scout kittens as he was so relieved when he caught up with me! Birds (other than raptors) seen in Chenek in addition to those below included Wattled Ibis (6), Red-breasted Wheatear, Grassland Pipit, Thekla Lark, White-collared Pigeon, Rock Martin and Ercick's Francolin (calling).

12/2: up at the crack of dawn 05:45 for flying start back to Debark with vehicle and team. No time for breakfast even. We dropped off guide, cook and scout in Debark, gave them appropriate tips for their great support and finally had breakfast with 4wd driver in a café in the main street. Then it was off to Aksum. Reason we left early was the need to cross a very hot valley near Inda Selassie before the intense heat of the afternoon set in. So route was a very long descent from Debark down a long winding road, through spectacular countryside, built by the Italians to Addi Decal; then across the very hot valley with vehicle gauge showing 42º outside temperature at 13:00, where there were some fantastic salt works, to late lunch at Inda Selassie (appropriately also known as Shire!) where an enterprising lad polished and repaired my shoes and finally along the Eritrean border into Aksum where arrived late afternoon. We stayed at the Africa Hotel, which raised a few eyebrows from the driver as he clearly thought it was a dive! Not at all and lovely to have a shower, albeit rather primitive. Had dinner a bit more upmarket at Yeha Hotel. Tomorrow it's more culture! A few piccies taken en route to follow.

13/2: spent morning in Aksum looking at the very weird ancient columns constructed in the town. Had a guide who was very attentive and made sure we saw an Eastern Orthodox style church service outside in the sunshine. It was very high church with much ceremony and the bishops dressed up in real finery! We also went to see a few out of town excavations which were pretty spectacular showing underground tombs and the like. Start was delayed by son deciding to cash some travellers cheques and being held up by someone apparently withdrawing his life savings in tiny birr notes. But got the shots of the female Tacazze Sunbird below while waiting outside. Added White-headed Vulture to raptor total while looking at the monuments. Piccies to follow of the culture. Then we were off fast to Mekele via Adigrat. The scenery from Adigrat to Mekele was very plain-like, rather like in Fuerteventura, Canaries, or perhaps to over-wintering birds like the steppes of Asia. They'd booked us into a more luxurious tourist hotel – said we could not rely on booking at short notice – think they thought our choice was not to be trusted after Aksum! It was OK – better plumbing – but lacked that lovely African edge! Mekele was just an overnight stop-off, the main attraction was ahead of Lalibela and its old rock-hewn churches and a marvellous hotel for viewing raptors, the Mountain View.

14/2-15/2, Lalibela is fantastic; besides the famous rock-hewn churches it has a very friendly culture and the Mountain View Hotel did have just that, very atmospheric views over the mountains to the W/NW and the plain below with a real Out of Africa feel. Certainly would recommend this hotel – location is ideal with staff and service to match! Many raptors just cruised around the cliffs on which the hotel is built as you can see below. They could be watched from the rooftop bar! Goodbye to driver – had 6 days of 4wd hire from Gondar-Aksum-Lalibela. We were deposited here on 14/2 late afternoon as he wanted to get back to Addis Ababa and we could manage on our own locally until catching plane back from Lalibela to Addis on 16/2. There was no point keeping him for local trips at $160 a day. Scenery was fantastic today on the drive here with steep mountains and gorges always in view. Some terrain around Mekele is quite like that of Fuerteventura in the Canaries with bleak moorland. It is noticeable how the number of winter visiting raptors has increased in this area compared to SMNP with Pallid and Montagu's Harrier, Steppe Eagle, Booted Eagle and Steppe Buzzard for instance. Terrain does not look suited to Honey-buzzard. It's been a good trip for the kestrels with 3 new species so far: Greater, Fox and Grey. Indeed falcons are performing very well with some long sightings of African Hobby in SMNP. We were lucky to get into hotel as it appeared to be full with large Chinese party but our 4wd guide put in a good word for us – we were good spenders (and tippers) – and miraculously we were in!

16/2: culture tour finished, we went to Lalibela Airport to catch small plane back to Addis Ababa. It was all very leisurely in beautiful weather taking the whole morning (09:30-12:30) to get there and take off; met the French people again, dark-haired student c was the best looking women seen on the trip I think! Not a single raptor was seen at the Airport. The route was back through Aksum to Addis so we saw a bit of the countryside. Most was fairly treeless plain but there was one big forest, suitable for Honey-buzzard, as we came down into Addis. We got a courtesy car from Addis Airport back to the classy Jupiter Hotel for our 3rd night there. To make the most of the daylight we had a good walk around the Piazza followed by an Italian meal; might be surprised at latter but culture of Addis is quite Italian as it was occupied by them for a while when it was Abyssinia. Raptors included 41 Yellow-billed Kite, 11 Rüppell's Vulture (8 to roost) and more surprisingly an Osprey flying low at dusk up the main river. Had 60 Nyanza Swift over the city and 2 Hadada Ibis. Then a marvellous soak in the bath dreaming of nice things from home!! Finally caught up with the internet both on hotel machines and on own laptop; latter was working for the last time, dust and vibration had presumably knackered it. Tomorrow son would be returning to England and I was flying back to Nairobi en route for Tanzania.

17/2: had leisurely breakfast and then took car to Addis Ababa Airport for flight by Kenya Airways to Nairobi. Emptied pockets of birr so that son could get some lunch before his late flight to London via Jordan. Quite a lot of raptors around the airport: 10 Yellow-billed Kite, 3 Black-shouldered Kite, 2 Rüppell's Vulture and a Western Marsh Harrier. Flight was smooth and landed in Nairobi late afternoon. Had booked into Sixeighty (680) Hotel, which was midrange. Taxi driver asked if I'd stayed there before and when I said no he laughed but refused to give anything away. It was a gaming hotel with the whole ground floor one big casino. So much night-life and plenty of bars but comfortable with good food. They had an armed guard outside the lift on each floor and when you wanted a taxi outside, they called one and checked it over before letting you in! Notwithstanding did go out for a couple of beers and locals were very friendly! On drive in from Nairobi Airport had 33 Yellow-billed Kite. Laptop collapsed overnight: didn't think it a good idea to just ditch it so carried it around for rest of trip – what a bind! Slept well in middle of bustling city. Next day was bus trip to Arusha in Tanzania with start of safari the following day.

Raptor multimedia

Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius

Yellow-billed Kite, Lalibela, 15/2, stills 1  2  3  4.

Yellow-billed Kite, Lalibela around Mountain View Hotel, 15/2, video with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  12  13.

Yellow-billed Kite, Lalibela from Hotel Mountain View veranda, 14/2, video with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6.

Yellow-billed Kite, Aksum, 13/2, still 1.

Yellow-billed Kite, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, stills 1  2.

Yellow-billed Kite, Debark, 9/2, video with derived stills 1  2 of perched bird.

Yellow-billed Kite, Gondar town, 8/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9, comparison with Hooded Vulture 1  2; video of birds over church 1 and going to roost 2; stills derived from another video 1  2  3  4.

Yellow-billed Kite, Addis Ababa city, 7/2, video including call at start with derived stills 1  2  3.

Rüppell's Vulture Gyps rueppellii

Rüppell's Vulture, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 11/2, video 1 with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5; video 2 with derived stills 1  2; video 3 with derived stills 1  2  3.

Rüppell's Vulture, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, adult video 1 with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7; unaged, video 1 with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10; immature, video 1 with derived stills 1  2.

Rüppell's Vulture, Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, 9/2, stills, adult 1  2  3  4  5  6.

Rüppell's Vulture, Gondar town, immature, 8/2, video 1 with derived stills 1  2  3; unaged, video 2 with derived still in comparison in kettle with Lammergeier 1.

Rüppell's Vulture, Addis Ababa city, 7/2, video 1 with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10 , video 2 with derived stills 1  2  3; comparison of Yellow-billed Kite and Rüppell's Vulture in video with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8.

Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus

Hooded Vulture, Lalibela around Mountain View Hotel, 15/2, still 6 with Booted Eagle.

Hooded Vulture, Aksum, 13/2, video with derived stills 1  2.

Hooded Vulture, Debark, 9/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5; video with derived stills 1  2  3.

Hooded Vulture, Gondar town, 8/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  12  13  14  15  16  17, comparison with Yellow-billed Kite 1  2; video 1  2 with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  12  13  14  15  16  17; video 3 with derived still in comparison in kettle with Lammergeier 1.

Augur Buzzard Buteo augur

Augur Buzzard, Lalibela from Hotel Mountain View veranda, 14/2, pale phase video with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10.

Augur Buzzard, Simien Mountains, Chenek, 11/2, video of bird in sky 1 with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8; of bird in rugged scenic setting 2 with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10.

Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus

Lammergeier, Simien Mountains, Chenek, 11/2, stills 1  2  3.

Lammergeier, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, video 1 with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  12  13; stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  12  13  14  15.

Lammergeier, Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, 9/2, video with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6.

Lammergeier, Gondar town, 8/2, video 1 with derived stills: on own 1  2  3, and comparison in kettle with Lappet-faced Vulture 1  2, Rüppell's Vulture 1 and Hooded Vulture 1.

Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax

Tawny Eagle, Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, 9/2, still, immature 1  2  3  4  5  6  7.

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus nominate

Common Kestrel nominate, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, adult male, 10/2, video 1 with derived stills 1  2  3.

African White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus

African White-backed Vulture, Lalibela around Mountain View Hotel, 15/2, adult video with derived stills 1  2  3  4; juvenile video with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6.

African White-backed Vulture, Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, 9/2, still 1.

African White-backed Vulture, Gondar town, adult, 8/2, video 1 with derived stills 1  2  3  4.

Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus

Black-shouldered Kite, Lalibela around Mountain View Hotel, 15/2, video with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7.

African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer

African Fish-Eagle, Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, 9/2, still, adult 1.

Steppe Buzzard Buteo buteo vulpinus

Steppe Buzzard, Lalibela from Hotel Mountain View veranda, 14/2, video with derived stills 1  2  3  4.

African Hobby* Falco cuvierii

African Hobby, Simien Mountains, Chenek, 11/2, video 1 of female with derived stills 1  2  3  4;  2 of male with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10. Video 1 shows effect on observer of altitude!

African Hobby, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, stills, adult in territory, 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  12; video 1 with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6. With African Harrier-hawk: end of video 3 with derived stills 1  2.

Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus

Booted Eagle, Lalibela around Mountain View Hotel, 15/2, pale phase video with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6.

Booted Eagle, Lalibela from Hotel Mountain View veranda, 14/2, pale phase video with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6.

Booted Eagle, Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, stills, 1  2  3  4.

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus rufescens

Common Kestrel rufescens, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, female/immature, 10/2, still 1.

Common Kestrel rufescens, Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, 9/2, stills, 1  2  3.

Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus

Gondar-Debark mountain pass, 9/2, site where Lanner in territory 1  2.

Honey-buzzard Pernis apivorus

Honey-buzzard, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, video 1 with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9. With such a wide range to choose from did also consider Wahlberg's Eagle and Booted Eagle. But tail is square-cut in both these species. This bird has a perfect tail for Honey-buzzard with length equal to wing-width, narrow base, bulge on sides and rounded corners at end. In glide wings are held depressed with carpal pushed forward and outer wing pointing straight behind. Head is small and bill is fine. The bird is well fed with full crop. If it's an adult, it will have completed its moult and be in 'textbook' condition before wear sets in.

Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, habitat Gelada Baboon, 9/2, such woodland may well be attractive to Honey-buzzard on migration and possible for over-wintering as well 1  2  3  4.

White-headed Vulture* Trigonoceps occipitalis

White-headed Vulture, Aksum, 13/2, video with derived stills 1  2  3  4.

Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus

Lappet-faced Vulture, Gondar town, 8/2, video 1 with derived stills in comparison in kettle with Lammergeier 1  2.

African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus

African Harrier-hawk, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, adult, 10/2, video 1  2  3  4 with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  12; stills 1  2  3; mobbed by Pied Crow, video 2 with derived stills 1  2  3; with 2 African Hobby, end of video 3 with derived stills 1  2.

Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis

Steppe Eagle, Lalibela from Hotel Mountain View veranda, 14/2, video with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5.

Culture

Sign to churches outside Lalibela, 15/2, still 1.

Biet Medhane Alem (church), Lalibela, 15/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  12.

Church of St George, Lalibela, 15/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7.

Biet Gabriel (church), Lalibela, 15/2, stills 1  2.

Church (name not known), Lalibela, 15/2, stills 1  2.

Biet Emmanuel (church), Lalibela, 15/2, stills 1  2.

Abba Libanos (church), Lalibela, 15/2, stills 1  2 .

Church tour, Lalibela, yours truly and son, 15/2, still 1.

Aksum, stelae (columns), erect, 13/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  29; site workings, including fallen stelae, stills 8  9  10  11  12  13  14  15  16; with son, still 17.

Aksum, Church of St Mary of Zion, 13/2, stills 1  2  3  4; excavations, still 5; stone inscription, still 6; chandelier, still 8; paintings, stills 9  10  11  12  13  14  15; tapestries, still 16; stained glass, stills 17  18; ceremony outside, stills 19  20  21  22; congregation at service, stills 23  24; tree, still 25; old church where Ark reputed to be held, stills 26  27  28.

Aksum, tomb of Kaleb, stone inscription, 13/2, still 7; sign, still 1; entrance 1; wood, still 1; countryside, stills 1  2  3  4  5  6.

Aksum, Dungur ruins, 13/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9.

Gondar Debre Birhan Selassie Church, 8/2, still 1 with paintings 1  2.

Gondar Royal Enclosure, 8/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9, last from rooftop bar!.

Mammals

Gelada Baboon, Simien Mountains, Chenek, 11/2, video including vehicle 1; stills 1  2  3  4.

Gelada Baboon, Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, 9/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5  6; habitat Gelada Baboon, such woodland may well be attractive to Honey-buzzard on migration and possible for over-wintering as well 1  2  3  4.

Other birds multimedia

Wattled Ibis, Lalibela around Mountain View Hotel, 15/2, stills 9  10  13 with Yellow-billed Kite.

Hemprich's Hornbill, Lalibela, 15/2, stills 1  2  3.

Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Aksum, 12/2, video with derived stills 1  2.

Speckled Pigeon, Aksum, 13/2, still 1.

Dusky Turtle Dove, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, stills 1  2.

Common Fiscal, Aksum, 13/2, stills 1  2.

Moorland Chat, Simien Mountains, Chenek, 11/2, still 1.

Rüppell's Black Chat, Lalibela, 15/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5  6.

Pied Wheatear, Lalibela around Mountain View Hotel, 15/2, video with derived stills 1  2.

Groundscraper Thrush, Simien Mountains, Chenek, 11/2, stills 1  2.

Tacazze Sunbird, Aksum, female, 13/2, video with derived stills 1  2  3  4  5.

Greater Blue-eared Starling, Lalibela, 15/2, stills 1  2  3.

Brown-rumped Seedeater, Simien Mountains, Chenek, 11/2, still 1.

Streaked Seedeater, Simien Mountains, Chenek, 11/2, stills 1  2.

Common Chiffchaff, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, video of calls 1.

Pied Crow, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, see African Harrier-hawk; Pied Crow, Gondar town, 8/2, still 1.

Red-billed Chough, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, tumbling bird video 1; Red-billed Chough, Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, 9/2, still, pair 1.

Fan-tailed Raven, Lalibela, 15/2, stills 1  2  3; Fan-tailed Raven, Lalibela around Mountain View Hotel, 15/2, video; stills 1  2 with Yellow-billed Kite; Fan-tailed Raven, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5  6; Fan-tailed Raven, Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, 9/2, still 1.

Cape Rook, Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, 9/2, stills 1  2  3.

Thick-billed Raven, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, stills, adult in territory, 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  12  13  14  15.

Travel

Lalibela Airport, 16/2, stills 1  2  3.

Lalibela-Aksum-Addis Ababa, scenery from plane, 16/2, stills 1  2.

Mountain View Hotel, Lalibela, 15/2, scenery, stills 1  2  3.

Mountain View Hotel, Lalibela, scenery, 14/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5; yours truly, still (against light but shows priorities!) 1.

Scenery Mekele-Lalibela, 14/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9.

Aksum-Adigrat, mountain, 13/2, stills 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10  11  12  13  14.

Adigrat, view, 13/2, stills 1  2.

Adigrat-Mekele, steppe, 13/2, stills 1  2; storm, stills 1  2  3  4.

Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 11/2, stills of camp 1  2, hut 1, kitchen/vehicle 1.

Simien Mountains, Chenek, 11/2, yours truly 1.

Simien Mountains, Chenek, scenery, pan video from promontory 1, of gorge before village 1; 11/2, stills of gorges and cliffs 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9.

SMNP yours truly and son, 10/2, still 1.

Simien Mountains, Sankaber, scenery, 10/2, pan video 1; cliffs, stills 1  2  3; valleys, stills 1  2  3  4  5.

Gondar-Debark mountain pass, 9/2, stills 1  2  3  4; site where Lanner in territory 1  2.

Debark town, stills 1  2.

Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, 9/2, camp 6; cliffs 1  2  3  4  5  6; moors 1  2; signs 1  2; precipices near camp 1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9; flowers 1.

Gondar Quara Hotel (in stylish pink!), 8/2, still 1.

Gondar street scenes, 8/2, stills 1  2.

Gondar shanty town (correct priority!), 8/2, still 1.

Gondar hills around town (with Yellow-billed Kite), 8/2, stills 1  2  3.

Butterflies

Butterfly, Lalibela Airport, 16/2, still 1.

Vegetation

Lichens on shrubs, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 11/2, still 1.

Rose sp, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, still 1.

Shrub sp, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, still 1.

Lichens on shrubs, Simien Mountains, Sankaber, 10/2, still 1.

Simien Mountains National Park, Sankaber, 9/2, moors 1  2; signs 1  2; flowers 1.

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